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Simply Savoie

Guided walking – snowshoeing – via ferrata in the French Alps with Mark Tennent

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Blog

Hunting in France ? Another Tragedy

The most recent trajedy took place near Grenoble, a young 20 year old student, walking on a well-used footpath. He was hit by two shots from a rifle fired by a 60 year old hunter. He died of his wounds. The hunter said he thought he was firing at a deer! He has been charged with manslaughter and the gendarmerie are carrying out an investigation. I sincerely this latest trajedy is not swept under the carpet due to the powerful hunting lobby.

On my regular forays into the woods in the autumn I feel obliged to wear a high visibility jacket and even then I don’t feel entirely safe. There has been at least one mushroom picker shot by hunters.

At the road junction leading up to the hamlet where I live there’s a sign during the hunting season telling you to watch out. It also indicates that hunting takes place on Saturdays, Sundays, Wednesdays, Thursdays and Public Holidays. It puts my back up as there are other people who wish to benefit from the mountains and forests and not just hunters. As for telling you to watch out it is surely the reverse and for hunters to expect others to be out and about.
It appears that French hunters are too ready to fire without clearly identifying the target. Surely fundamental before opening fire ? but sadly not. Does it have something to do with the fact that hunters often start there day with an alcoholic drink which is often topped up at lunch time. Clearly the current hunting licence that allows the purchase of weapons is not rigorous enough.

Shrinking Glaciers & Falling Rocks – Climate Change in the Alps

This summer’s almost unprecedented high temperatures has brought to the fore the effects of climate change. Glaciers have shrunk at alarming rates. The Glacier Blanc in the Ecrins has lost a quarter of its surface area in the past 30 years. Those monitoring the glacier fear that this year will be one of the worst. To maintain itself the glacier needs to be ?fed? by snowfall higher in the mountains and this has not been sufficient.

Everywhere in the Alps the ?permafrost? that acts as the glue holding shattered mountain rocks in place has melted. This has given rise to much more substantial and regular rock falls. The ?normal? route up Mont Blanc by the Gouter refuge was particularly in the news and the decision by the Maire of St Gervais, in whose commune the refuge resides took the decision to close the refuge for almost a month.

An ?Information? day with the Vanoise National Park

As an ?Ambassadeur du Parc? (Vanoise National Park) I was invited to a ?training / information? day at the Refuge de l’Orgere in the Vanoise, not far from Modane in the Maurienne valley. It was good to catch up with the other accompagnateurs again and the Vanoise national Park’s wardens.

The day started with presentations on vultures; in particular on the ?Bearded Vulture? (or Lammergeier). Read more …

The afternoon was given over to geologist Gilles de Broucker, now retired from Shell and living in the Beaufortain who is passionate about passing on his knowledge.

His presentation started by explaining, in layman’s terms, how the Alps were formed and focused in on the Vanoise mountain range. He spoke about the ancient alpine sea and alpine ocean where sediments were laid down. Then the coming together of the tectonic plates created the mountains thrusting up what are now the granites of the Mont Blanc range that also appear in parts of the Beaufortain and Vanoise. Lastly the mountains were eroded and shaped by glaciation.

Gilles then helped us to identify rocks, that we had brought with us. An interesting day.

Via Ferrata – Des Bettieres – Peisey-Nancroix

We headed up the windy road to Peisey-Nancroix and to the parking near Rosuel, a “gate-way” to the Vanoise National Park. 

Mont Pourri Vanoise Alps France
Mont Pourri in the Vanoise from Rosuel

The via ferrata des Bettieres has three sections, progressively more difficult but each with the option to take the “escape” route back down to the valley.  Although considered to be easier than the past two days via ferratas the final section has a challenging section and of course the setting is superb. 

Above the towering summit of Mont Pourri with it’s dark rocks and glaciers.  Further up the valley waterfalls tumble over the cliffs carved by a long gone glacier.

A short walk past Tarine cows and up amongst larch trees took us to the foot of the via ferrata.  The valley was almost deserted, it seems that once the French school holidays have finished that “the lights on but there’s no one at home”.  Still all the better for us to enjoy the mountains without the madding crowd.

Des Betti?res Via Ferrata Peisey-Nancroix - Alps - France
On the first section of the via ferrata Des Betti?res near Peisey-Nancroix.

Having “geared up” at the car it was straight on to the via ferrata after a final double-check on our equipment.  The first section is not steep and wends it’s way up ramps and slabs and past larch trees clinging to the inhospitable rock.  A lovely section though and a great introduction. 

Bettieres Via Ferrata Bridge
Enjoying the wire bridge on the via ferrata

A flattening in the rib and now it’s time to look up at the steep tower that provides the meat of the second section.  A small overlap guards the steeper wall before you can enjoy the verticality and the growing space below one’s feet.  A short wire bridge over a grassy gully took us on to another wall but this time a descending traverse.  A short steep downclimb took us to the end of section two and another option to “bail out”.

Onwards and upwards to the third section and I positioned myself to get a get video sequence of Mark as he tackled the impending wall.  A few feet of easy climbing and then the wall leans out and so do you for several feet before some moves right lead to a more relaxing position.  The hard section is over here but there’s still some delightful climbing in a great position before the ascent is over. 

Time to sit and drink in the view, chat about the last few days and just “be” in such a wonderful environment.

Coastal Walking on the Cote d’Azur

Walking on the Cote d'Azur?The South of France, and the Cote d’Azur, bring images of beaches, crowds and traffic jams.? Go ?out of season? and you can enjoy pleasant temperatures and a lack of crowds especially when you enjoy walking.? Choose times outside of the French school holidays, the bank holiday weekends (of which there are often several in May).

We recently enjoyed a short break in this area.? We drove south for about 4 ? 5 hours via Grenoble, Sisteron and Aix-en-Provence.? We arrived at La Londe before following a small road through vineyards between the coast and the low-lying hills behind.? We stayed just outside the pretty village of Bormes-les-Mimosas in the Var department, well worth a visit.? Lying off the coast are the islands of Porquerolles, Port Cros ( a national park) and Levant.? Boats can take you out to these islands from La Londe. I’m not one for spending hours lying on beaches frying in the sun.? However the chance to soak up some warmth after a winter in the Alps and do some walking was welcome.

The first day we set off on foot from the beach at La Londe.? The footpath remains close to the sea at all times as the land behind is all privately owned. It’s thanks to the ?Conservatoire Littorale? that this path exists (along with others on the coast).? After rounding the first point, the Pointe de l’Argentiere, we came to the beach of Le Pellegrin, a lovely sandy beach and crystal clear water.? Too tempting for Patricia who was soon enjoying the rather bracing 15 deg. Water for a dip. ? Our walk continued via the Pointe du Pellegrin to the beach of Leoube; with the chateau and vineyards of the same name inland.? The path crossed the Cap de Leoube and we soon arrived at the gorgeous beach of L’Estagnol.? Here we came across more people as there’s a car park behind the beach and the L’Estagnol restaurant with local specialities set amongst shady pines.? Time for another swim!

The following day we drove the short distance to La Faviere.? Leaving the car in a shady spot beneath the pines we crossed a beach to pick up the coastal path.? The path takes you out towards the headland, the Cap Benat.? The Cap Benat is a private estate so unless you are a resident the only way to enjoy the coastline is via this path.? The path is quite ?sporting? as it climbs from sea-level to traverse above cliffs hemmed in by signs reminding you that you are not welcome to penetrate inland.? Despite this there are great views along the coast.? Our turning point was the Port du Pradet where we ate our picnic.

The next day we left our car and walked to the beach of L’Estagnol so that we could do a circular walk.? Leaving the beach we followed the coastal path to the beach at Cabasson.? Here we went as close as you can get to the fort of Bregancon which is one of the French President’s retreats.? Guided visits can be booked.? We found a footpath that avoided walking on the road that led back to our car passing eucalyptus and cork oak trees.? For those of you who enjoy a ?degustation? there’s several vineyards to visit including: La Loubie, Bregancon and Malherbe. On our way home we drove north through Bormes-les-Mimosas to the small village of Collobrieres, ?the capital of Les Maures??? A great little break and a chance to explore another area.

Avalanche Transceivers and Electronic Equipment

Wearing an avalanche transceiver and carrying a probe and shovel are essential if going into areas with a potential avalanche risk. Essential too is practise in using the equipment.

Like many people these days I’m carrying a mobile phone and sometimes use a GPS. I was aware that electronic items could have an effect on avalanch transceivers. Transceivers emit a signal on 457 mhz until switched to ?search mode? when they are used to home in on this emission.
The effect was demonstrated recently in dramatic fashion. I had buried my rucsac with my transceiver to simulate a casualty. The two searchers switched their transceivers to ?search? mode. Immediately it became apparent that the two transceivers were behaving in a peculiar manner. Unexpected direction indications; sudden loss of signal and ?freezing?. What was going on!

We decided to get to the bottom of this issue by experimenting with different combination and permutations of phones and GPS’s. The culprit was a Sony smartphone. If this was in proximity in any mode other than ?off? the transceiver was rendered inoperable.

There’s only one conclusion: switch off all telephones when using transceivers.

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