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Simply Savoie

Guided walking – snowshoeing – via ferrata in the French Alps with Mark Tennent

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Via Ferrata du Diable near Aussois

Today dawned sunny once more with temperatures up to 31 degrees forecast; however there was supposedly a possibility of thunderstorms late in the day so we headed for the gorge of the River Arc not long after Modane and close to the villages of Arvieux and Aussois in the Maurienne valley.? There’s a huge variety of via ferrata here for all levels; from a really gentle introduction, “Les Angelots” to the one we were about to embark on with “very athletic” marked in the guide book.

Arrving at the parking by the fort Marie-Therese we geared up in the car park.? A short walk past the deserted high ropes course led us down to the Pont de Diable (the bridge of the devil) and up to the fort of Victor-Emmanuel.? A walk down through the innards of the fort took us to one of the gun ports and the start of our routes “La Descente aux Enfers” and “La Montee au Purgatoire”.? A “relaxed” walk took us down to the edge of the gorge and clipping on to the cable we climbed down to the top of a steep section.? This steep down climb took us down to a bridge that crosses over the Arc river gorge – impressive.? A sway across the bridge and we were on the other side.? The via ferrata started off gently with a traverse along the cliff.? Soon we stepped round a corner and the waterfall that marks the right hand side of the via ferrata could be seen tumbling over the cliff above us.

The next section became increasingly steep in a fantastic position.? Soon we were feet from the tumbling water and a last steep climb took us to a bridge that crosses above the top of the fall.? A really great via ferrata!? Recommended.

The Walking Umbrella

An umbrella for walking in the mountains!? Whatever next!

The first time I saw an umbrella in use in the mountains was in Chamonix in 1982.? I was walking on the Mer de Glace in the Mont Blanc Massif in the pouring rain returning from the Couvercle refuge when a French guide passed me carrying an umbrella.? He looked very comfortable too! I’ve started using one since living in the Alps where the rain tends to fall more vertically rather than being coming at you horizontally across a Scottish hillside; although I’m sure there would be some days it’s ideal.

Benefits

You don’t need to wear waterproofs!? So using an umbrella means you don’t get hot and clammy; the ultimate solution to the breathability question.

Not only keeps you dry but your rucsack and its contents too.? So rain covers for the rucsack aren’t needed either.

If it’s sunny you can use it as a parasol!

Types of Umbrella

I’ve tried short compact brollies but they tend to need a hand held high so my most recent preference has been one of my son’s golf umbrellas; much larger and with a long handle.

Objections

Yes, you can’t walk with two poles but given the choice between being soaked and using my poles I know which I prefer.

Vallon du Clou, St Foy-Tarentaise

The Vallon du Clou is located in the upper Tarentaise (Savoie) valley in the commune of St Foy-Tarentaise. The commune has tried to have annulled the classification of the valley so that it can create more downhill ski pistes and install ski lifts. The good news is the ?Conseil d’Etat? has recognised the need to protect the whole of the Vallon du Clou.

Beaufortain Via Ferrata – The Roc du Vent

The via ferrata the “Roc du Vent” is situated overlooking the delightful Lac de Roselend approached from the village of Beaufort or from the Tarentaise via Bourg St Maurice and the Cormet de Roselend.

As the French school holidays are at an end it was much quieter than two weeks ago as we parked at the Plan du Lai.?? A walk in of around 30 minutes took us to the base of the via ferrata where another small group was getting set to move off.? Mark got out his GoPro to film the trip who had been with me last year.? The first section takes a series of slabby grooves with the holds quite polished from the passage of many feet.? I enjoyed climbing the rock rather than using the metal rungs and steps.

At the end of this section of the via ferrata there’s the grassy summit of the Roc du Vent and I was delighted to see several Edelweiss in this area.? A stop for a quick snack and to take some photos of people on the wire bridge on the final section of the via ferrata.? A short descent down a rocky ridge took us to the “canyon” dividing us from the via ferrata’s final section.? A steep tower took us up to a platform were we could look back at Mont Blanc in the afternoon sunshine and also a view to the Refuge de la Croix de Bonhomme on the Tour du Mont Blanc.

A short down climb led to the impressive wire bridge.? Three wires, two for the hands and one for the feet that link two of the “towers”.? Swaying slightly and the impressive drop below took us to the end of the climb and time for lunch relaxing in the sunshien.? As the saying goes, “The shows not over until the fat lady sings” and so it is with the via ferrata Roc du Vent.? A steep descent snakes it’s way down the Lac de Roselend face of the Roc du Vent, occasionnally protected by cables brought us down to the entrance to the “tunnel”.? The tunnel about 100m long took us through the mountain to the descent path.? A great day out.

Are Mountain Bikes Sustainable in the Mountains?

I enjoy cycling, mainly on the road, and some mountain biking however I have reservations about the use of mountain bikes on footpaths (there’s a clue in the name) in the mountains.

I encountered mountain bike riders on the TMB and my reservations were towards were reinforced.? ?Fragile? ground e.g. soft ground or areas covered in alpine plants is rapidly damaged by the passage of just a few mountain bikes. Their passage is immediately obvious on the ground; groooves cut into the ground providing channels for water and subsequent erosion. Yes, the passage of walkers also causes erosion however not at the same rate. Studies have been carried out although the objectivity of some must be called into question. Alpine vegetation, especially above 1800m has a hard time surviving with a very short growing season). Any damage will take a long time to recover; if indeed it ever does.

Conflict with other, existing, users is also an issue. I had walked past a substantial flock of sheep climbing to the Col de la Seigne. A small group of mountain bikers road at high speed through the herd of sheep scattering them across the hillside. The shepherd was understandably upset, shouting at them.

The same mountain bikers then headed down the path towards me. I stayed on the path. The traditional etiquette in the mountains is that those descending give way to those coming up; as clearly it’s more of an effort. The expectation of the mountain was that I would ?jump? out of the way. Sadly it appears that the mentality of (at least some) is similar to that of car drivers with cyclists ? might is right.

It’s interesting to read that there’s a ?Mountain Bikers Charter? that clearly states that pedestrians have priority and to pass slowly or even get off. I chatted with a French Accompagnatrice from the Chamonix Guides bureau (who was on her 12th Tour du Mont Blanc of the year) and I was pleased that she was entirely in agreement over incompatibility of mountain biking on the TMB.

I don’t believe that mountain bikes in the mountains is a sustainable activity apart from on prepared and designated trails. The Vanoise National Park already forbids mountain biking apart from on a few name tracks. Why? The Park feels that mountain biking and the peaceful enjoyment of the park by walkers is not comptable. I happen to think they are right.

Exploring the Via Ferrata at Valloire, Maurienne

The village of Valloire is set high in the mountains between the famous Col du Telegraphe and the Col du Galibier linking the Maurienne valley in the Savoie with the Hautes Alpes. In the winter Valloire is a thriving ski resort.

There are 3 via ferrata close to the village itself. Two are situated on the Rocher Saint-Pierre just at the exit to the village. Although the two via ferrata are described separately typically they are combined. The first is currently affected by a large rock fall but a path enables you to regain the route a short while later. Check out the tourist office for up-to-date information.

Saint-Pierre I is pretty athletic with an impressive ladder followed by ?Le devers a Bras? (literally the overhang of the arms). Are your arms ready for it? The via ferrata is graded TD (Tres Difficile) and is 450m long. Allow around 2hrs to complete it. The second section, Saint-Pierre II, is a little less taxing but there are some sections where there’s plenty of ?space below your feet?. It includes a 40m long footbridge ending on a steep wall.

The via ferrata de Poingt Ravier was the first via ferrata in Savoie. It’s an ideal via ferrata for beginners with increasing views over the village of Valloire and the surrounding mountains. The via ferrata is approached by a very short walk, c. 5 mins, from the parking. The route follows slabs, a corner (?diedre?) and some short walls before reaching the summit. The descent passes through the picturesque little hamlet of Poingt Ravier before a path leads down in a series of zig-zags to the village.