Via Ferrata

A Review of the Cicerone Guide “Via Ferratas of the French Alps – 66 Routes between Geneva and Briancon” by Richard Miller

A client showed me Richard Miller’s Cicerone guide book to via ferrata in the French Alps when he came on my Via Ferrata in the South of France trip.

As a professional climbing instructor in France I have specialised in guiding via ferrata in the French Alps for many years. Prior to this I worked as a Mountaineering Instructor in Glen Coe, Scotland. I also trained and assessed potential instructors.

So it was with some interest that I looked at the Cicerone guide book. Some of the advice at the start of the guide book gave me some concerns. In my time guiding via ferrata I come across dangerous practice on quite a regular basis.

Richard Miller whilst clearly enjoying via ferrata on a personal basis is perhaps not the best person to give advice on technique and equipment. His bio’ makes no mention of qualifications in the mountaineering field.

Grading system

Richard has decided to create his own grading systeme for the via ferrata in the guidebook. The guide covers just 66 routes and other routes that users of this guide may encounter will use the well-established system already in place. Why change a very well established system?

Yes, the system currently used in France is not perfect but then what grading system is? The current system of grading is described in my article, “How are via ferrata graded in France“.

For people using the guide all the information “on the ground” i.e. information panels will bear no resemblance to his system.

Equipment

Richard talks about the various items of equipment typically used on via ferrata. Some of the information is dubious.

Should people choose to buy equipment in France the language barrier may be an issue.

Remember: via ferrata are potentially dangerous, and therefore all equipment used should confirm to the relevant safety standards. Don’t buy off Ebay!

If any doubt what to get and how to use it, consult with the staff at a climbing shop!

Shops in the UK are not always staffed by experienced people; still less those with substantial via ferrata experience. Their advice may be suspect.

Sit harness or full-body

Full body harnesses are as rare as hen’s teeth except for ones produced for young children e.g. the Petzl Ouisti.

Any doubts engage a qualified mountain guide or climbing instructor – this is Richard’s best advice!

Petz Scorpio Via Ferrata Lanyard — Petzl Scorpio via ferrata lanyard set

Via ferrata shock-absorbing lanyard

“Friction plates” these have been superseded by the “rip-out” style shock absorbing system. The French equipment manufacturer Petzl that specialises in mountaineering and industrial applications has NO friction plate systems in its product range.

If old “V” shape almost certainly very old and best not used.

Construct a via ferrata lanyard by yourself .. not recommended!

I would say that having seen “home-made” or improvised via ferrata lanyards that it is potentially lethal! Here’s a great example from YouTube!

Rest lanyard

There’s no need to use a screwgate karabiner as both lanyards should still be attached. When not in use and the screwgate is hanging down it will almost certainly screw itself up! So, when you come to use it, perhaps with arms tiring you are suddenly having to fiddle with the gate.

I use a screwgate krab attached to the pre-sewn loop above the shock absorber (not on all via ferrata lanyards) along with a quick draw and at the other end a plain, bent gate krab that is very easy to clip into rungs or the cable.

“never drop more than a few metres”
Richard Miller

This is misleading. Should you fall you are going to fall until the krabs on the lanyard reach the last anchor point. At this point depending on the force of the fall the lanyard will then rip (or slip if it’s a plate) and allow you to fall several metres further. Fall’s are to be avoided at all costs!

British man takes fall on La Roche ? l’Agathe at Thones in the French Alps

Pigs Tail ?pitons?
Richard Miller

These are not what mountaineers refer to as “pitons”. A piton is a metal rock anchor that is hammered into a crack in a rock face. The “Pigs Tails” (Queue de Cochon in French) are placed by drilling into the rock and then using a special resin to keep them in place.

Faster Party

When I notice a party catching up I advise saying you’ll let them through when you are in a good spot. By doing this the faster group knows that they are going to get by and you’ll feel much less stressed. Always stay clipped in! I gather my krabs together on the cable and flatten against the cliff to make it easy for them to clip past.

Tyrolean Traverses

Whilst in this guide the tyroleans are optional people should be aware that on some via ferrata these are not ?optional?! You will need the right equipment (sometimes available to rent) and know how to use it.

Tyroleans on via ferrata come in two forms.

The first has a double cable . Here put the pulley on to one (which one is typically indicated). Place a steel karabiner or maillon rapide on the second and clip one of your lanyards into the karabiner or maillon. An aluminium krab will have a groove worn in it if used directly on the cable.

Single cable tyroleans require a bit more thought and the right shape of karabiner. Place the pulley on the cable. Clip one of the karabiners (from one of the lanyards) over the cable and position it so it “sits” on top of the pulley. If positioned correctly it doesn’t touch the cable and yet should the attachment to the pulley fail for any reason this karabiner will leave you still attached to the cable.

In both cases you should only have a very short distance between your harness and the pulley. Normally it’s best to connect a large screwgate between the pulley and your belay loop on the harness. You need to be able to put both of your hands on the cable. This is both for potential braking but also should you not arrive by gravity at the far end you will need to turn around and pull yourself hand-over-hand along the cable.

Tyrolean Pulley types

Different tyroleans have been set up to be used with particular models of pulleys. The type of pulley required is indicated at the start of the via ferrata or mentioned in the guidebook.

Petzl Jaune Tandem Pulley — Petzl Tandem Speed Pulley

Petzl currently produce two double pulleys. The Petzl Tandem Speed – a silver / grey colour and the Petzl XX. The second is only for use on ropes! You will probably still find that some via ferrata talk of the Petzl Jaune (yellow). This is no longer in production. The issue with using the Speed is that it has steel ball bearings and runs much faster than the Jaune. You will need to brake much more to avoid crashing into the end of the tyrolean. Use thick leather work gloves. In some cases you can hire a Jaune but for how much longer? The tyroleans will need to be re-adjusted by lowering the starting point or raising the arrival.

To slow down on a tyrolean place the flat of your hand (wearing thick leather gloves) on the cable behind the pulley. Never put your hand in front and avoid putting it on tope of the pulley.

Climbing with Children

Children should always be roped up in addition to the via ferrata lanyard. There are some via ferrata specifically designed for young children. These via ferrata are constructed with the rungs

Weather forecasts

A word of warning – English translations are frequently a summary of the French one and are sometimes poorly translated.

Further potentially misleading information is given about via ferrata during spring or early summer. Many via ferrata are officially closed by “Arrêté Municipale” (local bye-law) when snow is on the ground.

Testing Rock

“Give it a solid whack with your boot or fist!”
Richard Miller

In my years of rock climbing I would initially just giving it a tap with the heel of hand – a “hollow” sound indicates it’s not solid. Starting off by giving it a solid whack may dislodge it straight away potentially falling on you, a companion or others on the route.

Dogs

https://simplysavoie.com/articles/guard-dogs-in-the-french-mountains/

Accidents & Mountain Rescue

Richard is incorrect to say that you will need to pay for mountain rescue. Mountain rescue in France is *free! Medical cover is not and you should insure yourself for doctor’s or hospital bills.

*During the winter months within what is defined as the “Domaine skiable” rescue is paid for.

Autumn via ferrata trip to the South of France

Finally the time came to run my first via ferrata tour in the South of France!

Saturday, 28th September saw me leaving my home near Albertville to head for the South of France.

I joined the motorway and headed first for Grenoble. Happily it was Saturday and so the typical early morning queues were absent. Looping around the by pass I soon picked up the road South. After a short section of motorway it was on to the twisty road through the Trieves and past the Mont d’Aiguille. Over the Col de la Croix Haute and the countryside changes. Soon I drove through Laragne and on to the another section of motorway near Sisteron.

I met Mark (who had been on two other via ferrata holidays with me) in the arrivals area of Nice airport. Soon we were in the car and out on to the motorway. Our destination for the night was Tende and the easiest way to get there saw us cross the Italian border before heading up the Roya valley.

We arrived at our hotel, an old Priory, for the night and checked in.

Day 1 – Tende

The following morning a 5 minute drive took us to the village of Tende itself. A quick stop to buy some sandwiches. We parked up by the railway station and walked up through the village passing the cemetery perched on the hillside. Soon we were at the start and looking at a Nepal bridge.

Across this we climbed a steep wall with increasing views over the valley in the clear autumn air. Soon we arrived at the first of the tyrolean traverses. I set off carefully as out Tandem Speed pulleys. Safely across we reached the chapel and a break for lunch. The next section, Les Heretiques, was sadly shut by an ?Arete Municipale? (local byelaw).

Back down in Tende we wandered through the amazing old streets.

Day 2 – La Brigue

Less than 10 minutes in the car saw us pull up in the village of La Brigue. The Tourist Office was open and I paid for two access passes for the via ferrata and got the key to the gate across the river.

A short steep approach through old terraces brought us to the foot of the route. A steep wall led to a even steeper or slightly impending wall that gave the arms a work out. The ground eased and a final short wall took us to the start of the 120m long Tyrolean.

Drive. We headed for the Col du Turini by a very winding road. There was no point in trying to rush it and it was best to ?take a chill pill? and enjoy the view. Next year’s Tour de France has this col on the itinerary – bonne courage!

We arrived at the St Sebastien Hotel near Roquebilliere. After the via ferrata and the journey it was great to chill out in the heated outdoor pool!

Day 3 – Lantosque

Lantosque. The via ferrata was ?shut? i.e. there was no one at the start collecting money and only a couple of chains barred access to the start. So we hopped over the chains and set off. The first section was very tame and we meandered down the gorge of the river. This section came to an end with a down climb and a Monkey bridge before crossing an enormous jammed boulder over the River Vesubie. The area weather the via ferrata local patrimoine accommodation restaurants / bars Tende

Day 4 – The Baus de la Frema at Colmiane

This was an outstanding day. We drove up from Roquebilliere to the Col de Colmiane. A short drive up a forestry road finishing as a track took us to a parking place. There was a hut that was clearly used as the “pay gate” but was un-manned.

A walk along the track and then a footpath took us on a descending path to the “Les Aiguillettes”. The highlight here was the large Nepal bridge. From here a short ziz-zag path through open pines brought us to the start of the next section; the Rochers de Miejou. In the first few metres a short traverse led to a short strenuous overhang. Above was steady.

At this point there were two options. Mark was not so keen on the harder one so we climbed the steep wall before traversing left above the lip of the cave. Here a ladder was climbed, facing out, with a squeeze to pass between the top and the cliff.

The following part was the “Arete des Calanques” on beautiful sculpted limestone. A real joy to climb. We then followed a short path to an exposed Monkey Bridge and I whipped round to photograph Mark crossing the bridge with the mountains of the Alpes Maritimes behind.

Monkey Bridge on the Baus de la Frema Via Ferrata Colmiane — Mark crossing the Monkey bridge on the Baus de la Frema

The culmination was the stunning Pilier du Soleil and an exit close to the summit of the Baus de la Frema at 2246m. A orientation table pointed out the surrounding summits.

Finally it was time to descend first on a good path and then threading our way down via various short cliffs, protected by cables. A brilliant day.

Day 5

A steep drive up narrow roads brought us to the tiny village of Roubion. A quick visit to the Tourist Office to pay our dues and a cafe. The approach was on part of a GR through alleyways that took us out to the open hillside.

A path cut off towards the cliffs of the Balma Negra and we were soon at the base of the cliff gearing up. A short wall to a cave ensued before a steep climb in a fine position. From here the route traversed right on the lip of the huge cave. Onward along a steady traverse before a final Monkey Bridge.

French Soldiers on a via ferrata — French soldiers on the via ferrata Balma Negra at Roubion.

As we were coming off a group of 30 odd French soldiers all kitted up for climbing started up the route. It was quite a sight seeing them dotted along the length of the route.

Our hotel for the night was in the village of Puget-Theniers and due to roads being closed we took a picturesque route via Valberg and Guillaumes and an impressive gorge.

Day 6

We woke up to another day of blues skies. 5 minutes in the car brought us to the parking place. There was no one at the entry hut but I phoned the guides company that managed the via ferrata and a monster 450m tyrolean.

Via Ferrata Demoiselles du Castagnet — Mark crossing the monkey bridge on the via ferrata Demoiselles du Castagnet

The Demoiselles du Castagnet, so named for the three pinnacles that formed the line of the route. The start up a steady wall brought us to a Nepal Bridge that gave access to a steep climb to the crest of the ridge.

A short down climb and a Monkey bridge in an exposed position. Another climb with the option of a more strenuous traverse took us to the tyrolean. This was a single cable and I was soon whizzing across the gap with only a slight brake necessary to arrive comfortably at the far end.

A final climb down saw in the woods and a pleasant footpath wending its way down to the valley.

Day 7

We left the hotel after a 7 o’clock breakfast and headed down the Var and Nice airport.

Join me on this trip!

John M. – Via Ferrata

Having done and gotten a taste for Via Feratta at Honister in the Lake District I looked long and hard at the internet for a convenient Via Ferrata experience.?

Having looked at the home of the VF, Italy, I extended my search to Austria, Switzerland, Spain and France.?

Am I glad I found Simply Savoie.? I chose the 3 day experience.? Absolutely no hassle, picked up by Mark from Geneva Airport and dropped off at the Hotel in Albertville, France.? Having never been in this area of France before and having no language skills it was very pleasant to hear about the areas we drove through and the local knowledge and scenery Mark described was, probably, priceless.?

Des Betti?res Via Ferrata Peisey-Nancroix - Alps - France — On the first section of the via ferrata Des Betti?res near Peisey-Nancroix.

Day 1 and Mark seemed to have assessed my ability and I was introduced to the 1^st day in Peisey-Nancroix on the Les Bettieres Via Ferratta.? Mark ensured I was confident with the essential safety exuipment, tips on progressing in a straightforward manner were only adding to my confidence.? I also feel that Mark has to feel confident in the customer?s ability as well and this also came across in an understated way.?

Via Ferrata Mont?e au Ciel - Pont du Diable - Maurienne — Climbing the via ferrata the Montee au Ciel above the River Arc.

The exhilaration of that 1^st day was only bettered on the 2^nd Day at Aussois were we did 3 VF?s in the beautiful gorge of the river Arc with imposing Napoleonic Forts on either side of a very steep and narrow gorge.? The 2^nd VF Les Rois Mages of that day was one which Mark had not actually completed before and again, he ensured that I felt confident in tackling the most difficult section and more importantly for me was that he felt confident that i was able to complete this part.? It was truly exposed, adrenalin pumping and exhilarating.? This was followed by another fantastic VF La Montee au Purgatoire which ascended up a spectacular waterfall.? Truly the descent in the Devil?s lair followed by the ascendency to Purgatory…………..(have I got that right?).?

La Roche ? Agathe Thones Via Ferrata — Steep climbing on the via ferrata de la Roche ? Agathe above Thones in the Aravis

My 3^rd and final day was in Thones on the VF Roc Agathe overlooking the town, this was another fantastic challenge before being taken back to Geneva airport for my flight home.?

Highly recommended as I felt that having done 5 VF?s in 3 days, with Mark providing a packed lunch each day, organising the accommodation in a setting which gave access to the sometimes distant VF?s.? The fact that Mark provided the transport meant you could enjoy the fantastic scenery added to his knowledge of the areas visited.?

The other big plus is that Mark is also a good photographer and I look forward to getting some extremely scary looking photos that he took along with video clips across gaping chasms.?

With VF?s to suit all abilities with a knowledgeable, experienced instructor, I felt safe and secure throughout, VF is not be taken lightly and can be strenuous but this has been the best holiday/short break I have ever done anywhere.

A Brief History of Via Ferrata

The first generation of Via Ferrata began in the Dachstein alps of Austria in 1843 with the first equipment installed on the normal route on the Hocher Daschein. This was equipped by Friedrich Simony.

In 1869 it was the turn of Studli on the arete linking the two easy summits of the Grossglockner, the highest summit in Austria.

Via Ferrata were born in the Dolomites in Italy during World War I (1914 ? 1918). They were constructed to help get men and equipment into strategic positions in the mountains. These via ferrata are now used for tourist purposes and maintained by the local communes and volunteers.

The local Alpine clubs equipped them with more equipment making them accessible to more than just pure mountaineers.

In the 1930’s and then again after World War II the Italian Alpine Club with the Societa Alpinista Trentina began to improve certain via ferrata in the Brenta Dolomites. They equipped them with steel cables, iron bars in order to make the access to some summits easier. One of them, the ?Via de la Bochette? became very popular. This route was equipped with a certain ethical standard in that only the parts with no or little holds were equipped.

From the 1950’s up until the 1980’s became more and more popular under the name ?Via Ferrata? as an activity in its own right.

From the 1990’s the popularity of ?via ferrata? boomed and they were soon to be found in France and Switzerland. Some of the routes became more and more sporting. More spectacular sections, overhangs and monkey bridges of wire cable. Via ferrata became very much an activity in its own right.

Via Ferrata in France

The first via ferrata in France appeared in 1988 in the Haute Alpes. The first route bearing this name appeared in the valley of Fresissiniere. A short time later another appeared in the nearby valley of Vigneaux that sees up to 15,000 people complete it each year. Shortly after the alpine valleys behind the coast at Nice followed the lead.

Grande Fistoire Via Ferrata France — On the Grande Fistoire via ferrata in France

Now there are more than 150 throughout the Alps including the mountain ranges bordering the Tarentaise, the Maurienne, the Bauges, l’Isere, l’Oisans, the Pyrenees, the Loire, l’Auvergne and Corsica.

One of the reasons for the growth in via ferrata in France is the desire of the ski resorts to diversify. Once the winter snows have gone the resorts are always trying to offer more opportunities for families and those looking for more adventures.

The via ferrata come in all forms. Some routes make enormous use of a variety of ironmongery to allow progression whilst others just use man-made holds when there are not sufficient natural holds. Of course there’s always the presence of the steel cable for security!

Occasionally you will come across ?Via Cordata?. These are routes equipped with intermediate anchors for the rope but no other equipment for progress.

Equipment

The equipment for via ferrata has developed over the years. Salewa developed one of the first karabiners designed for via ferrata and a shock absorbing system based on the rope being able to slip under load to absorb the shock. In France the company Petzl are probably the leaders for innovation.

The via ferrata in France are regularly inspected and maintained. The company Prisme has probably put up the most in France and Switzerland.

Read my other articles or find out about my guiding:

Via Ferrata Tour de la Jalouvre - Aravis - Alps - France

Guided Via Ferrata Holidays

A Beginners Guide to Via Ferrata

Via Ferrata Yves Pollet-Villard

The via ferrata Yves Pollet-Villard is in a great position close to the Col des Aravis and near the village of La Clusaz in Haute Savoie.? It is a beautifully situated above the alpine pastures and as you approach the route you may hear the sound of cow bells.? You may even want to visit one of the nearby farms selling Reblochon (the local cheese).

Leaving the car park the path leads you up through pine woods before you emerge at the base of the cliff.? There’s rock climbing routes to your left.? The via ferrata starts on steep limestone and overall takes a rising traverse up the cliff.? A short steep section close to the start gives you an idea of the difficulty that you may encounter.? Easier ground leads to a steep section, “le donjon des Deux Niches” (the dungeon of the two nests literally translated).? As you progress the route unfolds.

One of the classic views of the via ferrata Yves Pollet-Villard is a “Nepal Bridge” of about 20m, in an airy position.? This takes you on to another steep wall.? The route continues until, close to the end, two choices present themselves.? Either get ready for a short but sharp section with an overhang to test your arms and motivation or continue traversing before arriving at the end of the route.

The descent is straightforward across some inclined slabs before reaching wooded terrain, and a footpath leading down to the car park.

Mark’s Opinion

A superb via ferrata to be savoured!

A Review of the Cicerone Guide “Via Ferratas of the French Alps – 66 Routes between Geneva and Briancon” by Richard Miller

Grading system