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Guided walking – snowshoeing – via ferrata in the French Alps with Mark Tennent

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Trek

Staying in a Mountain Refuge

Staying in a mountain refuge high in the mountains!

Spend a night in a mountain refuge high in the mountains!? Watch the sunset like you’ve never experienced it before.? Don’t let the word ?refuge? put you off.? Staying a night in a mountain refuge (or hut) is a great experience.? It’s a great way of ?bonding? together as a family, group of friends or work colleagues.? Meet people with people from all over the world with one thing in common; a love of the mountains.? At the end of the day the mountains become even more special as the majority of walkers head back down to the valley; but not you. The French Alps have a network of mountain refuges many owned by the French Alpine Club (Club Alpin Francais) or in this area by the Vanoise National Park with a few being privately owned.? Staying in a mountain refuge allows you to complete hut-to-hut treks like the Tour of the Vanoise.

Reservations

It is always best to reserve the refuge in advance.? Firstly it avoids finding the refuge full.? Although you’re unlikely to be turned away (if it’s a remote refuge).? However you may find yourself sleeping on the floor in the dining room!

You should be able to contact the guardian of the refuge either by phone or email.? If you’re currently staying at one refuge the guardian there may be happy to phone ahead for you to the next refuge.? In some areas, like the Vanoise National Park, the huts have their own online reservation system where you can reserve all the refuges for a particular trip in one place; saving time and a lot of phone calls.

If for whatever reason you can’t make it or change your route do remember to contact the hut to let them know.? First of all the hut may be full and others may be turned away and secondly there may be concerns for your safety.

Cost

At the time of writing (2014) the cost of half-board in French huts is typically around Euro 45.? If you want to self-cater some refuges have an area for self-catering.? If you are a member of the French Alpine Club, or a member of another club with reciprocal rights? you will normally have a discount on the hut fees. AnchorIt’s worth remembering that the vast majority of mountain refuges do not accept credit cards!

Arriving at the Refuge

At the entrance there’s normally a boot room with ?hut? shoes, sometimes like ?Crocs?, to change into.? Don’t go into the main part of the hut in your walking boots unless you want to upset the guardian.

The first thing to do after making sure you’ve changed your footwear is make yourself known to the guardian.? He or she will then allocate you your bedspace.? They are also likely to ask which refuge you’ve come from and which refuge or route you intend to do the next day.? Now’s the time too to request a packed lunch for the following day and if asked tell them what drink you want for breakfast from the choice given.

The Guardian

The guardian is the most important person at the refuge.? It is him or her, who manages the refuge and ensure it functions efficiently.? No easy task.? Remember refuges are not hotels and doing your bit to help by following the ?etiquette? of the hut will make your stay, and that of others, more pleasant.? Frequently the guardian manages the hut on behalf of the owner be it the French Club Alpin Francais (CAF) or another body.

What to expect

AnchorFacilities

Refuges have become more luxurious than they once were reflecting changes in society.? However refuges in the high mountains may still be pretty basic.? Plugs / sockets for charging mobile phones or other portable electronic devices may not be available or very limited in number.? I’ve not come across wi-fi either and the mobile (or cellular) network may be poor or non-existent so plan accordingly.? If you need to contact another refuge on your trip ask the guardian and they will usually make it for you if you ask nicely.

Rooms

The more modern huts have relatively small dormitories now with may be 8 to a room however you may still come across the older style multi-occupany bunks with maybe 20 to a room on two levels with narrow single mattresses side by side on the base.? Cosy!

Showers

Most refuges on trekking routes have showers.? The high mountain refuges typically will usually not, as water is at a premium.? Some refuges make an additional charge by selling a token that also limits the amount of time you get with the water so make sure you’re organised before putting in the token.? It’s not much fun being all ?soaped up? and running out of water!

Meals

If you are staying on a half-board (demi-pension) basis then there will be usually a copious set evening meal.? Typically there’s soup; a main course with plenty of carbohydrate in the form of pasta / polenta and a desert of some type;; may be cheese.? I have had the experience where I’ve eaten fresh salmon!? Guardians are sometimes generous with a digestif like the regional genepy in Savoie / Haute Savoie.? Breakfast is typically? a? choice of coffee, hot chocolate or tea with bread, butter and jam.? Most refuges will also offer packed lunches but remember to order this on arrival the night before.

Remember that all the food and provisions for the hut are brought up from the valley; quite frequently by helicopter that explains that the prices are a bit higher and that there may not always be a great choice.

Winter Rooms

The huts guardian is normally at the hut from mid-June to mid-September.? It is clearly a good idea to check!
Outside of the main summer opening period there may be occasions when the guardian mans the hut.? Typically this is during the winter ski-mountaineering season.? If the guardian is not there huts usually have a ?winter? room that is left unlocked.? Here you will find bunks, blankets, and pillows plus limited cooking facilities.? So you will need to bring all your own food with you.? Hut fees are usually put in a ?letter box?.

Hut ?Equipment?

Footwear

When you arrive at the refuge it is normal to leave your walking boots in the boot room and here you will also find hut shoes (Croc type things or similar) for wearing in the hut.? You can if you wish carry some simple flip-flops of course in your sack.

Sheet Sleeping Bag

Don’t forget to bring a sheet sleeping bag or ?sac a viande? as it’s known sometimes.? These are now available in really lightweight fabrics including silk so take up very little space and weigh next to nothing.? It helps keep the bottom sheet and duvet / blankets cleaner.

Bedding

Blankets or increasingly duvets and pillows are provided in the dormitories so there’s no need to carry a sleeping bag.

Ear Plugs

It’s worth having some ear plugs with you in case there’s some snorers in the room with you.

Tips

If you’re leaving early in the morning before day break it’s worth doing a reconnaissance of the departure route to avoid wasting time in the dark in the morning.

Rubbish – you should take your rubbish with you as all rubbish has to be taken down to the valley or less usually now burnt.

A Winter Traverse of the Chartreuse on Snowshoes

The winter traverse of the Chartreuse mountains is a marvellous way to explore an area that retains an authentic charm. Bypassed by the masses the Chartreuse keeps it’s charms for those that want to distance themselves from the madding crowd. Silence, time for contemplation, moments to reflect, a breath of fresh air. Take the first step.

Descending in powder in the Chartreuse
Descending in the powder snow in the Chartreuse

The Chartreuse mountains are located in South-East France between the city of Grenoble in the south and the Lac du Bourget, between Chambery and Aix-les-Bains in the north. The eastern edge of the range is delimited by the river Isere. To the south the river cuts through a gap between Grenoble and Voiron and this forms the southern limit of the range. The Chartreuse has more than 1300km of marked footpaths ranging from gentle strolls to the long-distance paths of the Tour de Chartreuse and the Traverse of the Chartreuse.

The Chartreuse were classed as a Natural Regional Park in 1995 and the park covers an area of 76700 hectares overlapping the departments of Isere and Savoie. The highest point is the summit of the Chamechaud, 2082m. ?Les Hauts de Chartreuse? (the ?High Chartreuse?) are characterised by cliff fringed mountains with the lower slopes covered in extensive forests. These are the home to roe deer, wild boar, red deer, mouflons and chamois. Ibex were re-introduced in 2010 and there are currently around 30 individuals at the time of writing mainly in the area of Le Granier. It is a nature reserve with restrictions in place to protect the flora, fauna and natural environment.

The Chartreuse was the scene of a natural disaster in 1248 when the north face of the Granier (1933m) collapsed. The enormous landslip caused the death of between 4000 and 6000 people. Some of the boulders, of several 100 m3 travelled distances of around 8km from the cliff. Remnants of this catastrophy can still be seen amongst the vineyards of les Abymes near the Lac Saint-Andre.

The Grand Chartreuse Monaster in the winte
The Grand Chartreuse Monastery in the winter

The Chartreuse are famous for the liqueur of the same name originally produced by the monks of the Monastery of the Grande Chartreuse. The monks are from the Carthusian Order which was founded by St Bruno in 1084. The ?green? Chartreuse is strong 55% and is composed of alcohol, sugar and a close-guarded secret composition of 130 plants and flowers! It is typically drunk as a ?digestif?. In 2014 this liqueur will have celebrated 250 years of existence. It’s not possible to visit the monastery itself but at La Correrie, at the entrance to the valley, there’s a museum open to the public

The Chartreuse is a predominantly limestone massif that forms part of the French Prealps. During the formation of the Alps, starting around 30 million years ago, the rocky layers were folded and raised up. Erosion only left the bottom of the fold in the form of a long gutter (perched syncline), oriented North-South. The Chartreuse are typified by the steep limestone cliffs, high plateau and deep, wooded valleys. The Chartreuse is a ?gruyere? with extensive cave systems; over 250km have been discovered. In 1988 the bones of cave bears (Ursus Spelaeus) were discovered in a cave at la Balme-?-Collomb part of Le Granier.

The Traverse

In the winter the high plateau are relatively inaccessible and the lack of refuges or other accommodation means one has to descend to the villages and hamlets. In addition the ?karst? limestone hides deep clefts and pot holes that can be a serious hazard hidden by the snow. The traverse thus goes from village to village crossing passes with the possibility of taking in a few of the more accessible summits.

The traverse is probably best done South-North and leaving a vehicle in Chambery. The start can be reached easily from Grenoble by taxi. The longest days walking is around 7 hours with stages typically being in the 5 ? 6 hour range. The itinerary described gives six days walking.

Leaving from Sarcenas walking through snow-covered fields allows you to gain a path that leads up through forest to a ridge running between La Pinea and Montfromage (1662m). A loop back down brings you to the Col de Porte (1326m) and the possibility of overnight accommodation in the shadow of the Chamechaud.

From the Col de Porte a small road, closed in winter by snow, leads gently but steadily up to the alpine pastures below the Charmant Som (1867 m). Arriving at the pastures gives extensive views of the Chartreuse. A small ?oratoire? welcomes you to this point. A broad ridge leads to the Chalets de Charmant Som. The way to the summit steepens up a spur that leads eventually to the summit of the Charmant Som, a stunning viewpoint of the onward journey. In summer the GR takes a descending traverse across the eastern face of the mountain but in winter this is not advised (the route crossing steep limestone slabs). The best way is to retrace steps and to take the approximate line of a summer path that starts near the Oratoire. Alternatively descending the line of the route to the Col de Porte a broad, gully clear of trees can be used to link up with the former path and the hamlet of les Cottaves. Here contouring through fields brings you to Les Revols and the continuing path through pine woods. A final track leads down through occasional dwellings to Le Diat. From here a short walk leads to the centre of St Pierre en Chartreuse with a range of shops and choices of accommodation.

A brief walk along the side of the Guiers Mort river allows one to gain a path that leads directly to La Correrie where, except in winter, there’s a museum related to the monastery. A tree-lined road flanked by open fields now leads to the imposing monastery of the Grande Chartreuse. The way on offers to reach the Col de la Ruchere (1407m). Above you is the Petit Som and behind the Grand Som. The onward path descends through mixed woodland to the hamlet of La Ruchere which includes a small nordic skiing area. Accommodation is available in this dispersed hamlet.

Leaving La Ruchere a break in the trees leads to a track that gains a weakness in the barring cliffs. This gives access to a ?hidden? valley where a gentle climb brings you out on to the Col de Lechaud (1704m). The Petit Som is to the right and the Grand Som to the left. A short rising traverse allows you to pass through a cleft in the small ridge which gives access to open slopes with sparse pines that bring you to the Col Bovinant (1646m). A long valley flanked on the right by imposing limestone cliffs wends its way down through woods to reach the hamlet of Le Chateau with it’s ancient ruined castle standing guard over the village of St Pierre d’Entremont. A peculiarity of this village is that it’s in fact split in two! There’s St Pierre d’Entremont (Savoie) and St Pierre d’Entremont (Isere). A range of services are available.

A path leads from the centre of the village, first crossing the river, and leads up through a number of small hamlets. The route now contours through fields below the forested slopes of the imposing ramparts of Le Pinet (1867m) that guard the high plateau above. Finally, to reach the cirque de la Plagne an unmarked path through the forest allows you to gain a forestry track. Soon you arrive at the little hamlet of La Plagne, hemmed in by the cliffs above. If you look carefully on the steep slopes below the cliffs you may see ibex or chamois. La Plagne is a starting point to gain the high plateau via the Col de l’Alpette.

Quitting La Plagne it’s possible to contour around to join the small hamlet of Tencovaz after having passed above that of Le Granier. The onward journey crosses the road that leads to the Col de Granier before passing through the hamlet of La Coche. Now a stream is crossed before climbing up through woods and open fields to the Granges de Joigny. Soon the path heads up through beechwoods to the Pointe de Gorgeat (1486m). Here a view opens out over Chambery and beyond to the Lac du Bourget, France’s largest natural lake flanked on the left by the ridge of L’Epine and the Dent du Chat. Chambery beckons! Down along the crest of the ridge before quitting it at the Passage de la Coche to join fields and eventually the outskirts of Chambery near the Museum to Jean-Jacques Rousseau. A flight of steps leads down to the Carre Curial, a Napoleonic barracks, and the Maison des Parcs et de la Montagne. A sense of satisfaction tinged with sadness after having spent the last few days amongst the timeless beauty of the mountains ? the traverse over.

Take time to visit the permanent exhibition on the Vanoise National Park and the Bauges & Chartreuse Regional Parks in the Maison des Parcs et de la Montagne (now sadly closed). Linger a while in the old medieval streets of Chambery, home of the Dukes of Savoie and the capital of the old Kingdom of Savoie-Sardaigne that finally attached itself to France by the Treaty of Turin in 1860. Savour the market on Saturday morning close to the Hotel de Ville and draw in the enticing smells of Denis Provent’s, cheese shop who supplies many of the top hotels and restaurants in the region

Practical Information

When

In winter there are no guardianed refuges on the high plateau. One is therefore obliged to use accommodation in the hamlets and villages of the massif. Check this out in advance to avoid potential difficulties.

Due to the comparatively low altitude of the Chartreuse the snowiest months are likely to be January, February and early March.

Equipment

Snowshoes and walking poles (with snow baskets) of course. Given the nature of some parts of the traverse serious consideration should be given to wearing avalanche transceivers and carrying a snow shovel and avalanche probes. Don’t forget to practise using them!

Getting there:

The principle airports in the region are Lyon, Geneva (in Switzerland), Grenoble. Chamb?ry’s airport is principally a winter point of entry for skiers flocking to the ski resorts.

By rail the high speed train or ?TGV? gets you quickly to Chamb?ry (only 2hrs 30 from Paris) or Grenoble.

Highlights of the Tour of the Vanoise

The Vanoise massif (mountain range) is one of my favourite mountain areas.? The main area of the Vanoise is protected from the tentacles of the alpine ski industry by being a national park with strict regulations halting so-called ?development?.

With the heatwave still in full swing it was great to head into the mountains and lower temperatures.? The Tour of the Vanoise stays high for most of its journey, rarely dropping below 2000m except for the start and end of the trek.

The first day, having reached the Col de la Vanoise and the Refuge Felix Faure, we took a walk ?off-the-beaten-track? in search of wildlife.? We weren’t disappointed spotting several chamois. One, having moved a short distance, settled down to observe us from the top of a large boulder ? watching you, watching me.? Chamois are such elegant creatures in their preferred environment of rocky terrain high in the mountains.? Along the way we also came across the emblematic flower of the Alps; the edelweiss.

The next day we stopped to picnic by the Lacs des Lozieres; beautiful mountain lakes nestling at the foot of the Mont Pelve and the glaciers of the Vanoise.? The temptation to take a dip was too strong and astonishingly, even at 2400m, the water was warm enough to enjoy a few minutes in its cool embrace!? Further on below the Dome de Chasseforet we came across several female ibex with their young, called? ?cabri?, close by.? One of the females posed, perched on a rocky ledge beneath an overhang.? As we moved on she decided to come down, nonchalantly skipping across steep rock ledges to regain the ground.

A subsequent day a huge shadow cast on the ground drew our attention to a bearded vulture soaring effortlessly in the afternoon thermals.? It was joined by a juvenile vulture with its darker colouring.? Magnificent birds.

Mountain refuges come in all shapes and sizes.? One of my favourite spots is the Refuge de l’Aiguille Doran just below the valley of the Orgere.? We passed the time before dinner playing boules on the ?court? overlooking the Maurienne valley.? Fabienne’s cooking was, as usual, superb and we were treated to a lovely homemade soup followed by pork fillet in a creamy sauce.? For a mountain refuge with character, La Dent Parrachee, perched on a knoll above the twin lakes above Aussois is well worth a visit.? The Dent Parrachee is managed by Franck who presides over the refuge like a master of ceremonies.?? The new refuges at the Col de la Vanoise and the Refuge de l’Arpont gave me mixed feelings.? The ?soul? of the old refuges appeared to be missing; perhaps I’m too sentimental.? The new refuges are however very functional and clearly much easier to manage for the guardians.

Tour of the Vanoise

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