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Simply Savoie

Simply Savoie

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A Brief History of Via Ferrata

The first generation of Via Ferrata began in the Dachstein alps of Austria in 1843 with the first equipment installed on the normal route on the Hocher Daschein. This was equipped by Friedrich Simony.

In 1869 it was the turn of Studli on the arete linking the two easy summits of the Grossglockner, the highest summit in Austria.

Via Ferrata were born in the Dolomites in Italy during World War I (1914 ? 1918). They were constructed to help get men and equipment into strategic positions in the mountains. These via ferrata are now used for tourist purposes and maintained by the local communes and volunteers.

The local Alpine clubs equipped them with more equipment making them accessible to more than just pure mountaineers.

Via Ferrata La Bocchette, Italy

In the 1930’s and then again after World War II the Italian Alpine Club with the Societa Alpinista Trentina began to improve certain via ferrata in the Brenta Dolomites. They equipped them with steel cables, iron bars in order to make the access to some summits easier. One of them, the ?Via de la Bochette? became very popular. This route was equipped with a certain ethical standard in that only the parts with no or little holds were equipped.

From the 1950’s up until the 1980’s became more and more popular under the name ?Via Ferrata? as an activity in its own right.

From the 1990’s the popularity of ?via ferrata? boomed and they were soon to be found in France and Switzerland. Some of the routes became more and more sporting. More spectacular sections, overhangs and monkey bridges of wire cable. Via ferrata became very much an activity in its own right.

Via Ferrata in France

The first via ferrata in France appeared in 1988 in the Haute Alpes. The first route bearing this name appeared in the valley of Fresissiniere. A short time later another appeared in the nearby valley of Vigneaux that sees up to 15,000 people complete it each year. Shortly after the alpine valleys behind the coast at Nice followed the lead.

Grande Fistoire Via Ferrata France
On the Grande Fistoire via ferrata in France

Now there are more than 150 throughout the Alps including the mountain ranges bordering the Tarentaise, the Maurienne, the Bauges, l’Isere, l’Oisans, the Pyrenees, the Loire, l’Auvergne and Corsica.

One of the reasons for the growth in via ferrata in France is the desire of the ski resorts to diversify. Once the winter snows have gone the resorts are always trying to offer more opportunities for families and those looking for more adventures.

The via ferrata come in all forms. Some routes make enormous use of a variety of ironmongery to allow progression whilst others just use man-made holds when there are not sufficient natural holds. Of course there’s always the presence of the steel cable for security!

Occasionally you will come across ?Via Cordata?. These are routes equipped with intermediate anchors for the rope but no other equipment for progress.

Equipment

The equipment for via ferrata has developed over the years. Salewa developed one of the first karabiners designed for via ferrata and a shock absorbing system based on the rope being able to slip under load to absorb the shock. In France the company Petzl are probably the leaders for innovation.

The via ferrata in France are regularly inspected and maintained. The company Prisme has probably put up the most in France and Switzerland.

Read my other articles or find out about my guiding:

Via Ferrata Tour de la Jalouvre - Aravis - Alps - France

Guided Via Ferrata Holidays


Via Ferrata Rocher Cornillon Savoie

A Beginners Guide to Via Ferrata

Snowshoe Walking at Champagny-le-Haut

We had a lovely day of snow shoe walking with Mark in the Champagny le Haut valley. Mark was full of local flora and fauna knowledge keeping the girls, aged fourteen and twelve interested.
Thank you.

Patrick W.

Thank you for the feedback Patrick. It was a pleasure meeting you and your family. Mark

Is the Tour du Mont Blanc Sustainable?

The Sustainability of the Tour du Mont Blanc in Question

I guided several American groups hiking the Tour du Mont Blanc during the summer. The amount of people on this classic trekking route is amazing. It is clearly a great success however is the Tour du Mont Blanc sustainable?

Key Issues

Toilets

Look behind any large rock or amongst the trees close to the path and you will come across human waste and toilet paper. It’s hideous.

Erosion

The path is severely eroded. Given the many years that the Tour du Mont Blanc has existed you can expect erosion however walkers need to be educated.

Hikers on the Tour du Mont Blanc need to be educated to avoid taking short-cuts especially where paths zig-zag. These short-cuts create more channels for surface run-off that is quickly eroded after heavy rain. The fragile soil and plant life are unlikely to ever recover.

Walkers also need to learn to avoid walking immediately to the edge of the existing path. Walking immediately parallel to the path simply spreads the erosion in a ?ribbon? effect.

Mountain bikes, or as they are known in France VTT (Velo Tout Terrain) exacerbate and accelerate the rate of erosion. My observations show that they frequently avoid the drainage channels and rocks designed to take water off the path. By doing so they create a new channel for the water that simply by-passes the channel making it redundant; unable to do its job.

Watching a group descend from the Col du Grand Ferret they clearly had no regard for the erosion they were causing and spreading it across the mountain. I feed that mountain bikers are similar to downhill skiers; not real mountain lovers but those in search of an adrenaline buzz in a man-made environment.

Etiquette in the Mountains

In the mountains the etiquette has always been that those going up have priority over those going down. It’s common sense and courtesy really as it’s harder work going up hill. Whilst guiding an American lady this summer finding it hard going I was setting a slow pace for her. An American coming down the path indicated that I should move out of his way. I just stood there and politely reminded him of this mountain etiquette to which he said I was the first a***hole he’d met on the Tour. Charming.

Drones on the Tour du Mont Blanc

I can see the attraction of a drone and the amazing footage that one can obtain. However for those in the vicinity the buzzing like a demented bee is very intrusive. During a Tour du Mont Blanc this summer I was sitting with the group at the Col du Grand Ferret when a group of mountain bikers arrived. One of their number then got out a drone and launched it.

Potential Ideas for Improvement

Dry toilets

Putting in place dry toilets in locations where, currently, there are no toilets could help. There needs to be a move to construct bio matter type toilets in places where people tend to congregate e.g. the Col du Bonhomme (where there’s already a wooden shelter); Col de la Seigne or just below adjacent to the Casmatte; Col du Grand Ferret; Col du Tricot.

Leave No Trace

The use of zip-lock bags for toilet paper and / or human waste should be encouraged.

?Tourist Tax?

A levy for companies with groups on the TMB could be used for putting money back in to provide additional facilities and provide money to pay for ?wardens?.

Create the ?Mont Blanc National Park?

Despite its world renown the Mont Blanc massif has no special protection. National Park status would bring with it a level of regulation backed up by national park wardens. Yes, the TMB passes through Italy and Switzerland as well however even if the other countries did not agree, it would create an upwards pressure.

Via Ferrata Yves Pollet-Villard

Via Ferrata Yves Pollet-Villard

The via ferrata Yves Pollet-Villard is in a great position close to the Col des Aravis and near the village of La Clusaz in Haute Savoie.? It is a beautifully situated above the alpine pastures and as you approach the route you may hear the sound of cow bells.? You may even want to visit one of the nearby farms selling Reblochon (the local cheese).

Leaving the car park the path leads you up through pine woods before you emerge at the base of the cliff.? There’s rock climbing routes to your left.? The via ferrata starts on steep limestone and overall takes a rising traverse up the cliff.? A short steep section close to the start gives you an idea of the difficulty that you may encounter.? Easier ground leads to a steep section, “le donjon des Deux Niches” (the dungeon of the two nests literally translated).? As you progress the route unfolds.

One of the classic views of the via ferrata Yves Pollet-Villard is a “Nepal Bridge” of about 20m, in an airy position.? This takes you on to another steep wall.? The route continues until, close to the end, two choices present themselves.? Either get ready for a short but sharp section with an overhang to test your arms and motivation or continue traversing before arriving at the end of the route.

The descent is straightforward across some inclined slabs before reaching wooded terrain, and a footpath leading down to the car park.

Mark’s Opinion

A superb via ferrata to be savoured!

Via Ferrata Rocher de Cornillon – Savoie

Via Ferrata Pas de l’Ours and Golet de la Trouye – Aravis

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