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Simply Savoie

Guided walking – snowshoeing – via ferrata in the French Alps with Mark Tennent

Mark

Before the Storm! Via Ferrata at Thones, Haute Savoie

The forecast on Bleu Savoie indicated that the morning would be good with increasing cloud from the west.? It then stated that there would be heavy, thundery showers with strong gusts of wind.? Forewarned is forearmed!

We drove alongside Lac d’Annecy and then took the turning to Thones passing through the village of Bluffy.? A quick stop at the boulangerie for bread and a second breakfast pain au chocolat!? 5 minutes later we were parked a the foot of the via ferrata on a cliff above the village of Thones.? Back in Reblochon country.

We geared up by the boot and set off for the short walk to the foot of the route.? This via ferrata has a rather different ambiance above the town.? You can see people swimming in the pool and the market stalls around the church in the centre of Thones.? Arriving at the start of the via ferrata time for a quick reminder on safety and a double-check of harnesses, etc.

The route starts as it means to go on and soon you are traversing across 2 wires facing out over the impressive drop over the town.? At the end of this a steep wall reminds you that you are in a vertical environment.? The route continues with steep walls and traverses.? There’s an “escape” route around 2/3 of the way if time, inclination or weather indicates.? The weather was still good but there was an increasing amount of dark cloud forming in the direction of the Parmelan.

The finale of this via ferrata is a very overhanging section which is arguably the hardest via ferrata in France.? For those who are not sure of the strength in their arms and ability to reclip their slings at each rebelay there’s a ladder!? Before we took this option we watched a youngish man tackle the overhang wearing rock boots and a chalk bag!? His female companion attempted to follow but was rebuffed by the overhang unable to make the reach and “lock off” required to continue on the impending headwall.? She managed to reverse back down but took a short fall on to her kit – unhurt; but it demonstrated that via ferrata should be taken seriously.

After the ladder a short section climbing on limestone “rigoles” to the top.? With the increasingly black sky we chose to head for the descent rather than eat our picnic at the top.? The descent is protected by cables and takes quite some time.? We had got off the cable in the heavily wooded lower slopes when huge gusts of wind hit the trees.? Soon this was joined by heavy rain.? A quick scramble for our jackets and then a rapid descent to the vehicle.

Skiings Benefits to the French Economy and Savoie

An interesting article from Le Dauphine newspaper (a regional paper for South-East France) on how much skiing introduces to the economy.

http://www.ledauphine.com/savoie/2012/10/26/skier-en-france-combien-ca-coute-combien-ca-rapporte

Ski lifts, through the selling of lift passes, generated 1.2 billion (French: milliard) Euros last year.? It is estimated that each euro spent on a lift pass generates 6 Euros spent on other items.? So one arrives at a figure of 8.4 billion euros spent for all the French ski resorts.? These resorts generate 120,000 jobs.

Savoie benefits from 65% of the income generated.

It’s clear that skiiing generates a huge income for the Savoie department.? How much of this income remains in the economy is a different question with large companies owning the ski lifts, such as the Compagnie des Alpes.? Does most of the money end up in the hands of shareholders rather than in the local economy?

With global warming, if you don’t believe it look at the dramatically shrinking glaciers, having so many eggs in the “skiing” basket may be a recipe for future economic disaster.

I find it surprising that people wish to take a summer holiday in a purpose built ski resort as many resemble a building site in summer.? What appears to “fit in” during the winter i.e. the ski lifts and ski runs suddenly take on a rather incongrous appearance in summer.? Ski runs are often eroded and tracks criss cross the hillside.

if you’re looking for a summer holiday in the Alps look to the more authentic villages where the landscape hasn’t been subject to the demands of the voracious and unsustainable ski industry.

Vanoise National Park Information Days

I’ve just got back from 2 days with fellow “Accompagnateurs” (International Mountain Leaders) at Lanslevillard in the Haute Maurienne valley on the edge of the Vanoise National Park.? The two days were for accompagnateurs who are either current “Ambassadeurs du Parc” or those in the process of (hopefully) becoming one; as in my case.? There are currently about 25 “Ambassadeurs du Parc” and, if finally approved, I will be the only British “Ambassadeur”.? As the name suggests the accompagnateurs work in partnership with the Vanoise National Park authorities to help promote the park to their clients.? In return there are training / information sessions to help improve knowledge of the all aspects of the Vanoise National Park.

The two days were spent at the Auberge de Jeunesse at Lanslevillard which provided an excellent welcome to us all and we were fed and looked after very well.? Our first day concentrated on the historic “Route du Sel et des Fromages” that links Pralognan-la-Vanoise with Termignon, in the Maurienne valley.? Salt?? Salt was produced at Salin-les-Thermes in the Tarentaise extracted from high-salt content water linked with underground salt deposits.? This was at the time when Savoie was an independent kingdom; the kingdom of Savoie-Sardaigne.? Those of you who have been with me from Pralognan to the Col de la Vanoise will have followed this route.? We were fortunate to have the input from a consultant who has studied the route and it’s history in detail.

The following day looked at how agriculture and biodiversity can be of mutual benefit in the context of “Les Prairies Fleuries”; literally flower meadows.? We learned how bio-diversity when it come to the alpine meadows used for either grazing milking cows or for hay-making is beneficial to farmers.? After lunch we had input from a professor in geography and geomorphology relating to the French Alps.? All in all a very informative couple of days.? I hope to be able to share some of this knowledge of course with my clients.

Ski Mountaineering in the Lauziere, Savoie

A great trip skiing in the Lauziere not far from the Col de la Madeleine.? We set off from the road at 06h00 as the warm weather would quickly change the snow from marginal to wet porridge.? It was lovely watching the dawn sky brighten as we passed below the Logis des Fees on the way to the Portes de Montmelian.? Steve, my friend from Scotland was with me, as was my son, Stephen.? We chose the route to avoid steep slopes and there was plenty of evidence of avalanches the previous day; big wet snow slides.? Finally at the ridge we looked out over the Combe de Savoie, to the Bauges mountains in the direction of Chambery.? We waited about 20 minutes for the snow to soften a bit more in the sun before setting off.? The first slope was great skiing.? Further down, depending on the aspect the snow was either slightly crusted or deep damp snow with no real base; far from ideal conditions and requiring good technique.? Still it was good to be out in the mountains.

Walking in the Chartreuse

Today started off bright and sunny and we drove south from Chambery to the Col de Marcieu above the Isere.? From here we climbed steadily through the woods until we were below the imposing limestone escarpment that guards the Chatreuse high plateau.? The path zig-zagged it’s way along ledges in the cliffs before reaching the Passage d’Aulp de Seuil at 1860m.

Looking eastwards we could see not only Mont Blanc in the distance but the chain of the Belledonne, the Lauziere and down to the Pic de l’Etendard.? Way in the distance the Mont Aiguille stuck out above Grenoble.

We lost height as we followed a path into the shallow valley of the Aulp de Seuil passing a large herd of cows.? Are goal was to reach the Col de Bellefont at the valley head and as we gained heigh gradually we saw a number of chamois on the slopes below the Crete des Lances de Mallissard.

The ground steepened as we approached the col and when we got there the wind made itself felt.? We found some shelter and had something to eat with views of the Chamechaude (2082m)? and the Charmant Son (1867m).

On our return we saw further chamois an animal that I always enjoy seeing with it’s graceful, assured movement on steep ground.? A true “montagnard”!

Visit from Gideon of Quivertree Family Adventures

I met Gideon at Geneva Airport, as I do with most of my clients as it probably offers the widest range of flight options. Gideon is the President of Quivertree Family Expeditions, Vancouver, Canada who offer custom tours for families from Canada and the United States.Vineyards in Savoie?

From the airport we set off to Annecy with the first call being the Vieux Ville; Annecy’s medieval centre. Having enjoyed a light lunch on the edge of the river we made our way to Talloires. Here we visited the renowned Auberge du Pere Bise (Relais et Chateaux) with its reputed restaurant. The hotels’ grounds go right down to the waterside in what must be on of the most idyllic locations on Lac d’AnnecyUnknown Object

A drive throught the Bauges followed passing through the quiet, sleepy villages, cowbells tinkling in the fields. We stopped at Le Revard that overlooks Chambery, Aix-les-Bains and the Lac de Bourget (France’s largest natural lake). Unfortunately the cloud was down and we couldn’t get the view however luck would have it that a chamois and it’s young cabri were on the extremely steep ground just below us.

A visit to the old port at Aix-les-Bains where boats offer trips on the lake including visits to the Abbaye de Haute Combe, the resting place of the Princes of Savoie. Chambery’s old medieval centre was next on our agenda with it’s narrow alleys where the two sides are so close you could almost touch someone on the other side. Gideon checked in to the Hotel des Princes right in the heart of town; recommended. Chambery is the administrative capital of the department of Savoie. The chateau is now partly occupied by the ?Conseil General? but there’s an excellent little museum where you can learn about the history of Savoie until its attachment to France in 1860.

The following morning I showed Gideon around some of the delights of Chambery market (although Saturday morning’s market is much more substantial). In addition we explored the sensory delights of Denis Provent’s shop, a ?maitre fromager? where your senses are assailed with the sight and smell of a wonderful selection of cheeses. Provent supplies many of the top hotels and restaurants in Savoie. Tearing ourselves away it was off to follow the Route des Vins between Chambery and Albertville. The road hugs the bottom of the ramparts of the Bauges and is the home to many of Savoie’s fine vineyards at: Chignin, Cruet, St Jean de la Porte, Freterive. We stopped at Cruet and enjoyed a degustation of a fine Chignon-Bergeron, a wonderful white wine and a Mondeuse. Mondeuse is a cepage dating back to Roman times and is not widely known. Sadly, being the driver I needed to hold back and use the crachoir.

Skirting round Albertville we took the twisting road via Queige, Beaufort and arrived in the pretty little village of Areches basking in autumn sunshine. We went in and were greeted by Ludovic Blanc who oversees this little family hotel.

Leaving the village we took the narrow road that winds up the hillside, passing Boudin, to the Col du Pre. The view, as always, stunning with the Lac de Roselend spread out below and the Roc du Vent dwarfed by the backdrop of Mont Blanc. We stopped for a picnic lunch breathing in the fresh mountain air. Next stop the Cormet de Roselend (cormet is a Savoyard word for col or a pass) where we went for a short walk towards the Col du Grand Fond stopping to chat with an old shepherd with his two young border collie dogs watching over a flock of over 500 sheep.

Gideon’s last day saw us driving up the Val d’Arly and through Megeve to Chamonix. Being early October the streets were very quiet and we visited the church and the Maison de la Montagne before Gideon took the teleferique (cable car) to the summit of the Aiguille du Midi (3800m). Time to head to Geneva for Gideon to catch the train to Zermatt and his conference.