Archives for August 2018
Tour of the Vanoise
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=gcuPVs2SV6M&t
A Beginners Guide to Via Ferrata in France
What is a “Via Ferrata”?
A Via Ferrata (literally an “Iron Way”) is a rock face equipped with numerous metal handholds and footholds. Alongside is a steel cable, attached every few metres, to the rock. This cable acts as a “life line” to which you are constantly attached.
Via ferrata allow you to climb rock faces that would normally only be possible for rock climbers.
Via Ferrata don’t therefore require all the techniques and equipment of rock climbing making them accessible to a large range of people. This said you should never under-estimate the great danger with potentially extremely serious outcomes if you don’t follow simple, but fundamental principles.
Via Ferrata in France
France has well over 100 routes. They are mainly located in the mountainous Alpine regions including Corsica and the Pyrenees. However you will also find them in river gorges and on rock faces outside the mountains. There are even via ferrata close to large towns and cities like Grenoble, Annecy and Chambery.
Some via ferrata may reach a summit others are located on large rock faces or in spectacular river gorges.
Via Ferrata in France are seen as a “fun” activity and in addition to the typical metal rungs and ladders there are also “Tyrolean” traverses, “Nepal” bridges, “Monkey” traverses and other “fun” elements.
The vast majority of via ferrata are entirely free to use although in the South of France a few ask for a small payment. Most of the via ferrata are maintained by the local commune using specialist companies to ensure that the equipment is fit for use. Maintenance checks are carried out at least annually but if you notice a problem let the local tourist office know or the local guides bureau.
Who Can Climb a Via Ferrata?
Via Ferrata are suitable for anyone physically fit and active. The key piece of advice is to choose a route that is within your capabilities both physical and mental.
Physically via ferrata range from those that require very little upper-body strength to those where the capability to do several consecutive pull ups is essential. Running out of strength half-way up is not only unpleasant but getting back down can be challenging!
Mentally you need a “head for heights”. Rock climbers talk about “exposure” to refer to the feeling of being high above the ground. There are via ferrata in France ideal for young children or nervous adults. These routes are often not high above the ground by traversing across a cliff rather than going straight up it. They also may have several “escape” options where if you want to call it a day you can get down easily.
Are Via Ferrata Suitable for Children?
Children usually enjoy the challenge of a via ferrata but the choice of route should be made carefully.
Some routes are especially designed for use by young children. They typically have the “holds” closer together and the cable within easy reach. They also may offer several options to get off early, “escape routes”.
Safety with children
Children should be roped up in the same way as for a conventional rock climb. This is to ensure that they can never accidentally unclip themselves from the ?life line? or safety cable.
In addition to the clear safety element being roped up gives children more confidence. It also allows you to give a “tight” rope or a little assistance on more physical sections.
How to Choose a Via Ferrata
There are various factors to take into account. Naturally by choosing to use my guiding services you benefit from my experience and judgement on choosing suitable routes for you.
Choose a suitable grade
It’s best not to over-estimate your abilities!
If you suddenly feel frightened or nervous half-way up a big via ferrata it can be difficult to retreat.
If your arms run out of strength you may find it very difficult to carry on. If you. Your day can quickly turn into an epic and you may even need to call the rescue services!
Via Ferrata Grades
Via Ferrata in France are graded in the same way as Alpine climbs (although the two grades cannot be compared).
The easiest grade is usually PD (Peu Difficile ? literally a little difficult). At the top end there is ED (Extremement Difficile). Read my article, “How are via ferrata graded in France“.
How long will it take?
The time taken is different for each via ferrata. The typical time taken is usually indicated at information panels close to the start of the route.
There are via ferrata that may only take 30 minutes ideal for an initial “taster”. Some routes may take several hours. In some places you may work just a few minutes to the start of the route whilst others may require a long approach walk.
Don’t forget to allow time for the descent! On occasions the descent may still have sections of cable for protection. So don’t take off your equipment straight away.
Does it have “Escape” routes?
Does the via ferrata have the possibility of “escaping” early? “Escape routes” enable you to cut short the route if time is pressing, the weather changes or if you decide that you have had enough. Climbing back down a via ferrata can be harder than going on and if there are other people coming up awkward.
Does a particularly hard section have an option to avoid it by an easier “by pass” route?
Are via ferrata “open” all year in France?
Some via ferrata are “open” all year and others “closed” during the winter months by local bye laws.
You can normally find out by contacting the local tourist office or mayor’s office to find out in advance. Occasionally via ferrata may be closed due to safety issues like recent rock falls or potential issues with stability.
It’s a good idea to telephone in advance to check and avoid disappointment. It’s worth being aware that in some cases the safety cable is removed for the winter months so that it’s not damaged or the related anchors.
What Equipment Do I Need for a Via Ferrata?
To undertake a via ferrata safely you will need the following equipment. This equipment can often be hired from a local outdoor shop.
Via Ferrata ?Set?
The via ferrata kit or “set” is composed of two lanyards with large, self-locking karabiners. These lanyards then have a shock absorbing system before a loop for attaching it to a climbing harness.
There are two types of shock absorbing systems. The most common now is a ?rip out? system contained in a zipped pouch. Under the shock of a fall the lanyard inside the pouch literally rips the stitching that shortens the lanyard absorbing the shock.
The second, less common now, is a special device that, under heavy shock-loading, allows the lanyards to slip thus reducing the high shock-loading resulting from a fall.
These via ferrata sets can be bought or hired from local outdoor sports shops. Some via ferrata sets have a third attachment for a karabiner. This is designed for “resting” when your arms are tired or you want to stop and take photographs.
NEVER use normal climbing slings or rope on their own. In the event of a fall they will almost certainly break! They are not designed to withstand the shock-loading produced in a fall on a via ferrata.
Harness
Harnesses for via ferrata can be a straight forward design for rock climbing and don’t need any fancy extras. Some harnesses are one-size with both adjustable waist and leg-loops.
Young children may be advised to wear a full body harness as it cannot slip down off the waist. If hiring harnesses and helmets come along with the via ferrata set.
Helmet
It is wise to wear a helmet to protect you in the event of a fall.
It will also protect you from any small stones that may be dislodged by parties higher on the route.
Pulley
Some via ferrata include a Tyrolean (traverse). If this is the case you will need a suitable pulley. Make sure you have the correct type! The type of pulley needed depends on how the tyrolean has been constructed; tension of the cable and the difference in height between the departure and arrival points.
Petzl currently make two models for tyroleans: the Petzl Tandem Speed and the Tandem. Only the Tandem Speed is suitable for using on cables, the other is just for ropes! You will hear of the Petzl “Jaune” (yellow) but this is no longer produced. The Tandem Speed, as it name implies, is fast. It has ball bearings and steel pulley wheels.
You will need a pair of leather palmed gloves in order to control your speed if necessary.
Footwear
This depends to some extent on where the via ferrata is located. If the approach (and descent is on good paths on relatively flat terrain you can wear a pair of training or “approach” shoes. Otherwise it’s best to wear a pair of walking boots that give additional protection to the ankles and security on steep paths.
Clothing
No special clothes are needed however remember you may be in the mountains where the weather can change quickly.
Take a small rucsac with warm clothes e.g. fleece jackets, wind/waterproof jacket, hat, gloves as you would wear for walking in mountains.
Take some spare food, energy bars and a water bottle as you may get dehydrated. Don’t forget sun cream and your sunglasses too! Depending on the via ferrata’s length and location you may wish to consider a small head-torch, map and compass.
Lastly, to protect your hands you may want to consider some leather, finger-less gloves to protect from grazing and the occasional sharp ends of the metal cable.
Technique
The key “technique” on via ferrata is one fundamental to your safety.
It is imperative that you are always attached to the main cable (or “life line”) at all times by at least one of the karabiners attached to the via ferrata set.
As you move the karabiners will slide along the cable with you. When you come to a point where the cable is attached to the rock you will need to move one karabiner at a time on to the new section of cable. This ensures that you are always attached and therefore protected.
Resting
You may find your arms getting tired so the ability to have a “rest” is useful.
Some via ferrata sets have a third, short sling that can be clipped into a metal rung so that you can rest, (or take photographs). If the your via ferrata set doesn’t have this you can make one using a standard climbing sling and large HMS / Klettersteig karabiner. This is only for resting and not used during normal progression since it’s not integrated into the shock absorbing system.
Precautions
- Let someone know where you are going and when you intend to be back or when you will call to let them know you are down and safe.
- Thoroughly check your equipment each time for damage and wear and tear.
- Remember you are only as strong as your weakest link in the party. The more people in the group the longer the via ferrata is likely to take. If one person is struggling physically the whole party will be delayed.
- If you require rescue or witness an accident call 112 and ask for mountain rescue. Read my article “Mountain Rescue in the French Alps“.
Weather
Check the weather forecast before you go on Meteo France.
Being caught out in a thunderstorm on a via ferrata with a wet, metal cable is not something to contemplate.
The weather in the Alps is often best in the morning during the summer. In the afternoon it is quite common for large cumulus clouds to develop and these may go on to become thunderclouds.
It’s best to make an early start so that you are down before any potential changes in the weather.
Etiquette
- Always undertake a via ferrata in the direction (“sense” in French) indicated in the route description or on panels at the start of the route.
- Follow the “country code” making sure you take all your litter with you; remember to shut gates and don’t damage fences.
- Follow any advice and directions given on particular via ferrata to avoid either endangering yourself or others.
- Be polite and courteous to other users. If others come up fast behind you be prepared to let them past. Just choose a good moment and then stay still and let them carefully pass you. Do not unclip! By letting people through you will feel more relaxed and not under pressure.
- On certain parts of the via ferrata, for example, bridges it may indicate that you should only pass one at a time to avoid overloading the structure.
- If you accidentally drop something, or dislodge a stone, shout “Below” or “Attention” in French.
Mountain Rescue in the French Alps
In the mountains, away from the ?domaine skiable?? (the ski areas), rescue is provided, free of charge, by the French state.
The principle mountain rescue services are provided by:
- The Gendarmerie (and specifically the PGHM – Peloton Gendarmerie de Haute Montagne);
- The CRS Montagne – Les Compagnies r?publicaines de s?curit?.
- The ?Sapeurs-Pompiers? (and specifically GRIMP).
However, in some areas, notably the Tarentaise (Savoie), private organisations also form part of the departmental rescue plan. Here, SAF Helicopters has a contract with 43 communes and is a partner of the many ski resorts.
Sadly, the ?free of charge? principle has been eroded. In 1985 charging was instigated for skiers in the ski resorts and this has crept into wider circulation from 2002 although this can depend on the commune. A subsequent law in 2004 attempted to restablish the ?free of charge? principle but for whatever reason the 2002 law has not been repealed! The argument that rescue should remain free of charge is that citizens have already paid for the services of the state through their taxes.
Whilst the [mountain] rescue itself may be free the intervention of the doctor is not. The doctor’s fees may not be covered completely by the French health service or Securite Sociale. These fees may be substantial.
Consequently it is best to play safe and make sure you have suitable insurance that covers you for the activities you intend to undertake including rescue, medical and, if necessary, repatriation. If your activities take place across the frontier in Switzerland you should note mountain rescue is always charged for and is very expensive!
Calling for Mountain Rescue
The key number is 112, the European emergency number. The centre will then put you through to the relevant emergency service.
Calling for Mountain Rescue in Switzerland
The primary number in Switzerland is 1414 or 144 (if you happen to be in the Canton of Valais) – this puts you through to the REGA.?? If all else fails dial 112.
Calling for Mountain Rescue in Italy
Before You Call
You should be ready to reply to the following questions (if you don’t you will spend more time on the phone):
- Who are you?
- What’s your telephone number?
- Where are you? You should be able to give the co-ordinates for your location. What path are you on? e.g. the Tour du Mont Blanc between X and Y.?Useful applications
- What altitude you are at?
- What’s happened? e.g. Fall or slip, illness, etc.
- How many of you are there?
- What injuries / illnesses? e.g. casualty unconscious ? not responding to pain? fractures (which limb, etc).
- What’s the weather like at your location? e.g. visibility ? distance; obstacles e.g. power lines or ski lifts ( a major factor for a helicopter), cloud base, wind speed.
After Raising the Alert
- Don’t hang up until told to do so.
- Leave your phone on for a potential call back.
- Follow the instructions of the rescue services.
Preparing for the Arrival of a Rescue Helicopter
- Landing site minimum 25m x 25m (free of obstacles)
- Landing site c. 100m from the site of the accident
- Remove loose objects (e.g. clothes, rucksacks, etc) or lie on top of them.
- During landing ? stay still and kneeling down.
- Keep visual contact with the pilot.
- Don’t approach the helicopter except guided by a rescuer.
Insurance
Below is a far from exhaustive list of options for suitable insurance.
Club Alpin Francais ? becoming a member of the CAF gives access to very good insurance.
Diot Montagne ? this company offers insurance by the day, week or annually.
Au Vieux Campeur – this chain of outdoor shops offers a very competitive insurance with their “Carte Club”.
Don’t forget that certain home insurance policies may also give cover, as do certain credit cards. As always read the fine print to avoid a nasty shock!
?
Useful Applications:
- UTM GPS – gives UTM grid reference in large letters along with your altitude.
- GendLoc – an application used by the gendarmerie to locate your position.? They send you a text message and if you click on the link it gives them your precise location.? It needs you to have a signal and data connection.
- ViewRanger – you can read my review of this GPS mapping application here.
Footnotes
?The ski area (?domaine skiable?) is said to cover the area that can be reached by gravity from a ski lift.
References
L’article 54 de la loi n? 2002-276 du 27 f?vrier 2002
Un texte de 2004, l?article 27 de la loi de modernisation de la s?curit? civile SDIS.
Snowshoe Walking near Termignon
Termignon nestles in the Maurienne valley with the Vanoise mountain range on one side and the mountains forming the Italian frontier the other. Termignon is on the ancient trading route, the ?Route du Sel? that starts in the Tarentaise valley near Moutiers and crosses the Col de la Vanoise before dropping down into the Maurienne.
My intention today was to explore the valley of the Doron de Termignon in search of ibex (bouquetin in French). We were not to be disappointed.
Parking by the church we only had to walk a short distance before fastening our snowshoes. The snowshoes made no noise as we padded through the soft powder covering the ground as we headed off through open fields beneath the imposing slopes of the La Dent Parrach?e (3697m).
To our right the ground sloped gently down to the banks of the river. The Doron de Termignon starts near Entre Deux Eaux, high in the Vanoise, formed from the two torrents flowing out from the Vallon de la Leisse and the Vallon de la Rocheure.
From the confluence the Doron takes on a very different feel as it tumbles its way beneath dramatic cliffs in the glacier-carved gorge. This gorge is the nesting site for a pair of Bearded Vultures (or Lammergaier). The gorge ends near the Pont du Villard before following a more gentle course to its junction with the River Arc.
Chamois, Ibex, Vultures & Eagles
Soon I was reaching for my binoculars in my sac and scanning the broken cliffs that bounded the snow-covered pastures. I quickly spotted some chamois finding sparse, brown grass to maintain them through this harsh winter.
Suddenly movement in the sky caught my eye. The shape and size meant that it could only be a Bearded Vulture (or Lammergaier). It soared effortlessly above the cliffs against the blue winter sky. This would be one of many sightings during the day.
Repeat performances punctuated the day. We also sighted two younger vultures identifiable by the different colouring and size.
Next up on the fly past were two Golden Eagles spiralling up in the thermals given off by the exposed rocks. The eagles then proceeded to ?patrol? the cliffs no doubt looking for their next meal.
We continued to wend our way through the deserted countryside below the cliffs. We stopped for a hot drink and a snack in the ?sun-trap? formed by an old, tumbling chalet before continuing to parallel the cliffs. Another halt to scan the cliffs with binoculars was rewarded with the sight of numerous ibex. A female with a cabri (young ibex) grazed on the meagre offerings on the snow-free ledges. Adult male ibex grazed with their huge horns swaying with the movement.
As we climbed gently we looked back the way we came only to see a chamois crossing the field below us. An unusual, for me, perspective as normally they’ve always been above me on steep rocky terrain.
Our snowshoe walk culminated on a sunny knoll overlooking the start of the gorge. Above us two male ibex gave us a view of their huge, curved horns. Homeward now with the winter sun low in the sky casting faint shadows on the now crisp snow. A wonderful day snowshoeing in idyllic surroundings, ?off-the-beaten? trail.
About Termignon
Termignon is one of the largest communes in France and now amalgamated into the commune of Val Cenis. It counts six glaciers and sixty-three summits of over 3000m and almost a third of the Vanoise National Park. Termignon also lends its name to a cheese, the ?Bleu de Termignon?.