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Simply Savoie

Guided walking – snowshoeing – via ferrata in the French Alps with Mark Tennent

Walking

Why go snowshoeing?

Snowshoeing has been around since man searched for a way of getting around in deep snow. It’s now a very popular and growing, winter activity.

  • It’s fun! It is suitable for all, young or old, fit or not so fit and it can be enjoyed by the whole family.
  • It’s easy! ?If you can walk, you can snowshoe?. Within a few minutes you’ll feel at ease and in control.
  • It’s inexpensive! Snowshoes can be purchased for between 100 and 150 Euro and there’s no need for an expensive lift pass!
  • It’s as relaxed or as adventurous as you wish! Take a gentle stroll amongst snow-draped trees or push your limits ? the choice is yours. In fact it’s an ideal aerobic, low-impact, exercise.
  • In touch with nature! Snowshoeing allows you to move almost silently so experiencing the peace and tranquillity of the snow muffled landscape. It’s a great way to see the wildlife. In Savoie you may see chamois, ibex (bouquetin), or deer that you will never see in the noisy ski resorts.

Equipment

Snowshoes

TSL Snowshoe
TSL Snowshoe

Popular brands include: TSL, Tubbs, GV and Inook. For those unfamiliar with snowshoes it may conjure up images of a pair of tennis racket-like things attached to your feet. In fact modern snowshoes are high-tech and made from plastic or are aluminium framed. The size of snowshoes is related to your weight so, in general, snowshoes for women are smaller than they are for men. Most are very simple to adjust for the size of your footwear and then a simple binding system attaches them to your boot.

The idea of the snowshoe is to spread your weight so you don’t sink into the snow; or at least not nearly so much, giving access to places impossible on foot. Going up hill is made easier with the use of a heel lift feature which means there’s less strain on your calf muscles. Grip is provided by small metal spikes (crampons) under the snowshoe that will stop you slipping on hard snow or patches of ice. At the front there are ?claws? or ?front points? which provide grip when going directly up steep slopes.

Ski or Trekking Poles

A pair of ski poles / trekking poles with large ?snow baskets? can aid your stability and also provide additional impetus to your stride.

Boots

You don’t need special boots; a pair of good walking boots / snow boots is ideal, with gaiters or a pair of trousers with a snow cuff the ideal companion to avoid snow entering the top of your boots.

Clothing

No special clothes are needed. Warm clothes e.g. fleece jackets, wind/waterproof jacket, hat, gloves as you would wear for walking in the winter.

Extras

Don’t forget your sunglasses and some sun cream! A small rucsac is recommended to carry an extra windproof /waterproof top, fleece jacket, a drink and snacks.

Technique ? a few tips

Snowshoeing doesn’t have a steep learning curve but a few tips will soon have you moving around confidently enjoying a new-found freedom.

On the flat

Your style of walking will need to take account of the width of the snowshoe and to avoid stepping on the other snowshoe. It’s best to start out on a level path or track whilst you get accustomed to them. Turning around is best accomplished by turning in small steps until facing in the new direction or doing a ?kick turn?.

Downhill

Going downhill is easiest, and the most fun, in deep powdery snow. Raise the toe slightly allowing the tail of the snowshoe to come into contact with the snow first. Try to walk confidently with a good transfer of weight from one foot to the other. The snowshoe may slide forward a bit but avoid the temptation to lean back. You can use your pole to provide extra balance but avoid using them directly in front of your body. On firm snow place the snowshoe flat on the ground so that the crampons can ?bite?.

Uphill

Unless it’s a very short distance, ?zig-zag? up the slope using the terrain to best advantage. This puts less strain on the legs and you’ll gain height surprisingly easily. If you encounter a very steep bank you can use the ?claws?/?front points? of the snowshoe.

Traversing

This is easiest in soft snow conditions where you can still place the snowshoe down normally. When the snow is firm you will need to roll the ankle to allow the snowshoe to lie flat on the slope, thus allowing the crampons to “bite”.

Etiquette

If you’re snowshoeing avoid walking on prepared ?pistes? for cross-country skiers as the railway like ?tracks? are damaged by walking on them. Skiers may also approach fast and you don’t want to be involved in a collision. In ski resorts try and avoid the pistes but if you have to, cross quickly or walk up or down the edge of the piste.

Precautions

Danger Avalanches Sign
Beware of Avalanches!

Naturally if you go into more mountainous terrain you should be aware of the risk of avalanches. You should then carry normal avalanche equipment (avalanche transceiver, shovel and probe) and most importantly know how to use it. Let someone know where you are going and when you intend to be back.  Read my article on Mountain Rescue in the French Alps.

Where?

You can go snowshoeing anywhere there is snow!

On paths and tracks you don’t need much depth however going through woods it’s best with a bit more depth that covers The ground can be flat, undulating or even on more mountainous terrain. The world’s your oyster!  Of course you can always join me on a Guided Snowshoe holiday.

Article copyright: Mark Tennent – all rights reserved

Tour of the Vanoise – Article for “Mountain Passions”

History

The Vanoise National Park was France’s first national park created in 1963 covering an area of 520 sq km. The culminating point of the Vanoise is the Grand Casse which rises to 3855m which was first climbed by William Matthews in 1860. The Park shares a 15km common boundary with the Grand Paradiso National Park in Italy. There are over 107 summits that exceed 3000m. The Vanoise, located in the department of Savoie, stretch from the border with Italy just beyond Val d’Is?re and Bonneval-sur-Arc to the Col de la Madeleine bounded by the valleys of the Tarentaise and Maurienne. The Savoie department formed part of the independent kingdom of Savoie Sardaigne that only became part of France in 1860. Savoie’s administrative centre is located in Chamb?ry.

The Vanoise National Park remain unspoilt due to strict controls on construction and development.

The Tour

The route described here is sometimes known as the Tour des Glaciers de la Vanoise.

One of the great beauties of this tour, apart from the superb scenery, is that you don’t drop down to a valley again until the end of the tour. Likewise you will not pass through villages, and walk close to roads. Having said this the tour is well provided with mountain refuges that provide simple accommodation and where you meet like-minded people.s

It is, in my opinion, a better tour than the one described passing through the village of Val d’Is?re and Tignes with the cancerous protuberances of the ski industry. Compared with the Tour du Mont Blanc you stay at altitude during the whole tour and need only touch tarmac road for 50m from start to finish.

There’s a choice of natural starting points, either Pralognan-la-Vanoise, (accessible from Moutiers in the Tarentaise valley) or Modane (in the Maurienne Valley). The route I will describe starts from Pralognan-la-Vanoise.

If you take the route in a clock-wise direction the first day is a gentle one that leads via the Lac des Vaches to the Col de la Vanoise; at the foot of the Grande Casse. The route follows the ancient ?Route du Sel?; an old trading route going back 100’s of years. The col, with the refuge Felix Faure, makes a wonderful spot to spend the night. The marmottes here are particularly friendly. If you have energy to spare you can explore the area around the col and perhaps walk up to the edge of the glacier.

The path now heads past Lac Bond and the Lac du Col de la Vanoise, only losing a little height, before contouring right around the hillside. There’s a junction here with the path to Entre deux Eaux and a road to Termignon in the Maurienne. The path climbs gently but in general it follows a natural balcony passing below the glacier de Pelve above and the deep gorge of the Doron du Termignon. The views to the south are outstanding, a panorama of mountains that form the Italian frontier. The only road across this range passes over the Col de Mont Cenis. Soon the Arpont refuge comes into sight, built into the moraine and thus protected from avalanches.

The journey continues high above the Maurienne crossing tumbling streams on the steep flanks of the mountains below the Dent Parrachee. The shepherd’s huts of La Loza perched on a spur are passed before a zig-zag descent crossing some steep ravines brings us out above the village of Aussois. Here two lakes, the Plan d’Amont (higher) and the Plan d’Aval (lower) provide hydro-electric power. A few ski lifts make their appearance as the national park’s boundary bends inwards. There’s a choice of refuges, Plan Sec, La Dent Parrachee or the Fond d’Aussois. Take your pick but I like the traditional, rustic, Dent Parrachee with Franck the friendly guardian.

Today’s ?normal route? crosses over the valley and passes via the Col Barbier (2287m) sharing the line of the GR5 on it’s journey south, before traversing more alpine pastures. Be aware of the ?patous? who may be guarding the herds of sheep (the best advice is to stop and wait for them to see that you are not a threat and then to move slowly). The route now drops down through pine woods and passes through the edge of a boulder field before regaining height to reach the L’Orgere. Here there’s the first sight of tarmac since leaving Pralognan-la-Vanoise and a chance for a bit more comfort if you wish. For those wanting more of a challenge you can take the ?direct? route via the Col de la Masse (2923m) with an equally challenging, for the knees, descent to the l’Org?re. This area is often frequented by chamois.

The next section climbs in a few zig-zags above l’Orgere before easing off and eventually passing the lac de la Partie. Above and to the left is the Aiguille Polset and the Glacier de G?broulaz however the route makes for the natural crossing point, the Col de la Chaviere (2796m), the highest ?obligatory? col on any GR in France. A short steep descent on loose ground leads to a meandering route through old moraine and boulder fields. Soon the refuge Peclet-Polset is reached, a very modern refuge, the old one burned down in a fire. If you want a little more exercise you can reach the Lac Blanc in about 15 mins from here.

The valley that extends below is the start of the Doron and soon you are amongst the pastures again on a well-defined track. Make a choice at the farm of Le Ritort either to carry on in the valley bottom or you can climb up and traverse below the Glacier de Genepy before regaining the valley floor near the hamlet of Prioux. Here the tarmac commences again but leave the end of the hamlet and walk down the left-hand bank to reach the road that’s crossed to immediately to follow a track all the way to Pralognan-la-Vanoise, and the end of the Tour.

Wildlife

Keep your eyes peeled for the relatively rare Bearded Vulture (Gypaete Barbu) with it’s wingspan approaching 3m! It feeds on carrion so is one of nature’s recyclers! It has the habit of dropping large bones from altitude to smash them open on rocks. There is a pair nesting not far from Peisey-Nancroix and the vultures have a territory of between 100 and 700 km2.

The park is famous for its large population of Bouquetin (Ibex) who were almost hunted to extinction. Now there’s approaching 4000 and they are relatively approachable. The males are identified most easily by their large, almost 1m long, scimitar shaped, knobbly horns. The females have shorter horns that are less ?knobbly?.

Chamois (Rupicapra rupicapra) are highly agile and have hooves adapted to their preferred terrain of steep rocky ground where they feel safe from the threat of two-legged hunters. They have a white ?blaze? on their cheeks and short horns that curve just at the top. If you’re lucky you may see a young chamois (cabri) with it’s mother.

You will undoubtedly encounter the cuddly looking Marmotte but your first awareness of it’s presence is likely to be a shrill whistle. This whistle is their warning cry to alert other members of their group that there’s a threat. The nature of the whistle changes to reflect whether it’s a ground or aerial threat.

Flowers

Wild flowers are probably at their best in June and early July. This depends on how quickly the winter snows melt. Keep your eyes open for the iconic edelweiss and the g?n?py that gives it’s name to the pale-ish liqueur. Naturally you should come across the stunningly beautiful blue gentiane. Please note that in the Vanoise National Park that picking the flowers is forbidden.

When

The main limiting factor is availability of the mountain huts (refuges); the second, in the spring, being the snow remaining from the winter. The refuges normally open around mid-June (exact dates can be found on www.refuges-vanoise.com and they typically close in mid-September despite the weather often being good at this time of year.

Equipment

You should only require ?normal? mountain walking attire plus a sheet sleeping bag for using in the refuges. You can read an article here on staying in mountain refuges (Link to Simply Savoie).

Getting there:

The principle airports are Lyon, Geneva (in Switzerland), Grenoble. Chamb?ry’s airport is principally a winter point of entry for skiers flocking to the ski resorts.

By rail the TGV gets you quickly to Chamb?ry (only 2hrs 30 from Paris) and then you can easily get to either Modane or Moutiers. From Moutiers buses or taxis are available to Pralognan-la-Vanoise.

Staying in a Mountain Refuge

Staying in a mountain refuge high in the mountains!

Spend a night in a mountain refuge high in the mountains!? Watch the sunset like you’ve never experienced it before.? Don’t let the word ?refuge? put you off.? Staying a night in a mountain refuge (or hut) is a great experience.? It’s a great way of ?bonding? together as a family, group of friends or work colleagues.? Meet people with people from all over the world with one thing in common; a love of the mountains.? At the end of the day the mountains become even more special as the majority of walkers head back down to the valley; but not you. The French Alps have a network of mountain refuges many owned by the French Alpine Club (Club Alpin Francais) or in this area by the Vanoise National Park with a few being privately owned.? Staying in a mountain refuge allows you to complete hut-to-hut treks like the Tour of the Vanoise.

Reservations

It is always best to reserve the refuge in advance.? Firstly it avoids finding the refuge full.? Although you’re unlikely to be turned away (if it’s a remote refuge).? However you may find yourself sleeping on the floor in the dining room!

You should be able to contact the guardian of the refuge either by phone or email.? If you’re currently staying at one refuge the guardian there may be happy to phone ahead for you to the next refuge.? In some areas, like the Vanoise National Park, the huts have their own online reservation system where you can reserve all the refuges for a particular trip in one place; saving time and a lot of phone calls.

If for whatever reason you can’t make it or change your route do remember to contact the hut to let them know.? First of all the hut may be full and others may be turned away and secondly there may be concerns for your safety.

Cost

At the time of writing (2014) the cost of half-board in French huts is typically around Euro 45.? If you want to self-cater some refuges have an area for self-catering.? If you are a member of the French Alpine Club, or a member of another club with reciprocal rights? you will normally have a discount on the hut fees. AnchorIt’s worth remembering that the vast majority of mountain refuges do not accept credit cards!

Arriving at the Refuge

At the entrance there’s normally a boot room with ?hut? shoes, sometimes like ?Crocs?, to change into.? Don’t go into the main part of the hut in your walking boots unless you want to upset the guardian.

The first thing to do after making sure you’ve changed your footwear is make yourself known to the guardian.? He or she will then allocate you your bedspace.? They are also likely to ask which refuge you’ve come from and which refuge or route you intend to do the next day.? Now’s the time too to request a packed lunch for the following day and if asked tell them what drink you want for breakfast from the choice given.

The Guardian

The guardian is the most important person at the refuge.? It is him or her, who manages the refuge and ensure it functions efficiently.? No easy task.? Remember refuges are not hotels and doing your bit to help by following the ?etiquette? of the hut will make your stay, and that of others, more pleasant.? Frequently the guardian manages the hut on behalf of the owner be it the French Club Alpin Francais (CAF) or another body.

What to expect

AnchorFacilities

Refuges have become more luxurious than they once were reflecting changes in society.? However refuges in the high mountains may still be pretty basic.? Plugs / sockets for charging mobile phones or other portable electronic devices may not be available or very limited in number.? I’ve not come across wi-fi either and the mobile (or cellular) network may be poor or non-existent so plan accordingly.? If you need to contact another refuge on your trip ask the guardian and they will usually make it for you if you ask nicely.

Rooms

The more modern huts have relatively small dormitories now with may be 8 to a room however you may still come across the older style multi-occupany bunks with maybe 20 to a room on two levels with narrow single mattresses side by side on the base.? Cosy!

Showers

Most refuges on trekking routes have showers.? The high mountain refuges typically will usually not, as water is at a premium.? Some refuges make an additional charge by selling a token that also limits the amount of time you get with the water so make sure you’re organised before putting in the token.? It’s not much fun being all ?soaped up? and running out of water!

Meals

If you are staying on a half-board (demi-pension) basis then there will be usually a copious set evening meal.? Typically there’s soup; a main course with plenty of carbohydrate in the form of pasta / polenta and a desert of some type;; may be cheese.? I have had the experience where I’ve eaten fresh salmon!? Guardians are sometimes generous with a digestif like the regional genepy in Savoie / Haute Savoie.? Breakfast is typically? a? choice of coffee, hot chocolate or tea with bread, butter and jam.? Most refuges will also offer packed lunches but remember to order this on arrival the night before.

Remember that all the food and provisions for the hut are brought up from the valley; quite frequently by helicopter that explains that the prices are a bit higher and that there may not always be a great choice.

Winter Rooms

The huts guardian is normally at the hut from mid-June to mid-September.? It is clearly a good idea to check!
Outside of the main summer opening period there may be occasions when the guardian mans the hut.? Typically this is during the winter ski-mountaineering season.? If the guardian is not there huts usually have a ?winter? room that is left unlocked.? Here you will find bunks, blankets, and pillows plus limited cooking facilities.? So you will need to bring all your own food with you.? Hut fees are usually put in a ?letter box?.

Hut ?Equipment?

Footwear

When you arrive at the refuge it is normal to leave your walking boots in the boot room and here you will also find hut shoes (Croc type things or similar) for wearing in the hut.? You can if you wish carry some simple flip-flops of course in your sack.

Sheet Sleeping Bag

Don’t forget to bring a sheet sleeping bag or ?sac a viande? as it’s known sometimes.? These are now available in really lightweight fabrics including silk so take up very little space and weigh next to nothing.? It helps keep the bottom sheet and duvet / blankets cleaner.

Bedding

Blankets or increasingly duvets and pillows are provided in the dormitories so there’s no need to carry a sleeping bag.

Ear Plugs

It’s worth having some ear plugs with you in case there’s some snorers in the room with you.

Tips

If you’re leaving early in the morning before day break it’s worth doing a reconnaissance of the departure route to avoid wasting time in the dark in the morning.

Rubbish – you should take your rubbish with you as all rubbish has to be taken down to the valley or less usually now burnt.

Pralognan la Vanoise

Pralognan-la-Vanoise, usually shortened to Pralogan or even Pralo’ is a ?gateway? to the Vanoise National Park. The village nestles amongst the high Alpine peaks of the Vanoise with the culminating peak, the Grande Casse (3855 m) close by. The village is at an altitude of 1400m.

Whilst there are a few ski lifts Pralognan keeps it’s village feel; village first and resort second. Pralognan is in a cul-de-sac with only one road in from the valley of the Tarentaise. To reach Pralognan you drive from Albertville up the Tarentaise valley to Moutiers. From here the road leads up via Bozel passing turns for the big, monster ski resorts of Meribel and Courchevel. Keep straight on and the road zig-zags up before you arrive at the village.

There’s a range of local services for the visitor, hotels, appartments and campsites. Higher up there are mountain refuges too with those in closer proximity accessible to most willing to make a short walk.

Walking & Climbing

Pralognan makes an ideal base to explore the Vanoise. The Tour des Glaciers de la Vanoise sets off from the village following the ancient Route du Sel to the Col de la Vanoise (2517 m) passing by the picture postcard Lac des Vaches. Two Grande Randonn?e (long distance walks) pass through, the GR5 on it’s way from Lake Geneva to the Mediterranean and the GR55.

Following the river Doron de Chaviere you can either walk, drive or take the ?navette? (free local bus) to the car park and end of the road at the hamlet of Prioux; only open in summer. Here you can also enjoy a meal or drink at one of the caf? / restaurants. To go further it’s on foot only and a short walk can take you to the refuge of the Roc de la Peche. For those going further you can continue to the alpine farm at Le Ritord and on to the Refuge Peclet-Polset.

Beyond the Refuge Peclet-Polset are the azure waters of the Lac Blanc nestling below the Col du Soufre and you can make out the edge of the Glacier de Gebroulaz. Another option is to head on to the Col de Chaviere (2796m) that is one of the highest cols on a Grand Randonnee.

The Col d’Aussois gives access to the Maurienne valley and a short detour to the Pointe de l’Observatoire gains the magical 3000m point. Further on along the ridge is the dramatic Point de l’Echelle.

Rock climbers can find short routes close to the centre of Pralognan but if you want long mountain routes you are spoilt for choice. Try the Aiguille de la Vanoise, the ?shark’s fin? of a mountain dominating the Lac des Vaches.

Via Ferrata

A short walk from the village centre is the Cascade de la Fraiche an impressive waterfall that thunders down between steep rocky walls. It’s the location for a great via ferrata that goes by the same name. The route starts on the left (looking up) and follows an edge that depending on the water level in the stream is sometimes bathed in a cooling spray from the waterfall! The most memorable part is crossing high above the waterfall on two steel wires to gain the other side. The route finishes up more steep rock before finishing amongst pine trees in the shade. A great couple of hours on a hot summer’s day! A good path leads back to the village.

Recommend Places

The Hotel Le Grand Bec *** at the entrance to the village is family owned and you can be assured of a warm welcome and excellent food. To relax there is an outdoor pool and inside another pool, sauna and jacuzzi.

“Patou” – Guard Dogs in the French Mountains

Walking in the French Alps or the Pyrenees, you will frequently come across herds of cows, sheep or goats. The sound of the bells tinkling is all part of the Alps. Maybe you will see a shepherd with them. The scene is all part of the timeless traditions in the mountains.

You are walking along a path enjoying being out in the mountains. Up ahead there’s a flock of sheep. If the terrain allows you to give the flock a wide berth.

As you approach you suddenly hear barking and a large dog running towards you.

How should you react? Stop!

The “Patou” thinks that you are a potential threat to the flock. It coming to find out. They may come quite close (5 to 10 metres) and bark furiously.

Do’s

  • Stop! Stand still!
  • Keep your arms down by your side.
  • Speak calmly to the dog(s).
  • Stay calm & wait! (calm at least outwardly).
  • Move slowly away from the dog and the flock. If the dog starts barking again stop again!
  • If the flock is blocking the path go around (if the terrain allows) rather than ?force? your way through the middle.

Don’ts

  • Don’t run! The patou may well chase you and it’s faster than you.
  • Don’t wave walking or trekking poles around, this will be seen as a threat.
  • Don’t throw stones at the dog(s).
  • Don’t use pepper spray or similar products.
  • Avoid making direct eye contact with the dog – again this is seen as a “challenge”.
  • The dog may take a several minutes to decide that you are not a threat. It will gradually calm down and may then wander back towards the flock.
The right way to react to the “Patou” – video: Parc National des Cevennes

What are these dogs?

In the Alps they are known as ?Patou? however they are perhaps more commonly known as Pyrenean Mountain Dogs.

They are large, 65 – 85 cm at the shoulder, with a long white coat. They make good guard dogs as they are loyal to what they see as their ?family?. The dogs are brought up as puppies with the flocks and then come to see them as part of their family. They are very protective.

Why are these dogs there?

Patou - Guard Dog in the French Mountains - Alps - France
Patou – Guard Dog in the French Mountains – Alps – France

To protect flocks from predators. In particular the increasing population of wolves. In the Pyrenees they also protect from bears.

A Patou among a flock of sheep
A Patou with a flock of sheep in the Vanoise, Alps, France

Farmers use guard dogs, patou. These dogs stay out on the mountains with their flocks day and night. Their use is largely due to the increasing population of wolves. There are regular wolf attacks reported in the local papers and farmers are understandably taking measures to protect their flocks and their livelihoods. One of the ways is through the use of patou. Wolves have spread over from Italy in particular. The wolf is a protected species under the Berne convention and to kill them needs an authorisation from the local pr?fet.

Favourite Places ? Around Lac d’Annecy

The Lake Annecy area has to be one of my favourite places. Lac d’Annecy itself is the third largest lake in France with a surface area of 27.59 sq.km. and has very clean water.

Annecy Town

Annecy itself is a bustling town and the administrative capital of the department, Haute Savoie. It is 50km from Chambery and only 40km south of Geneva. Annecy is sometimes known as the ?Venice of the North?. The medieval part of Annecy that adjoins the lake is traversed by the river Thiou. The narrow old streets with ?hidden? passages is a labyrinth of shops, bars and restaurants.

Talloires is very pretty and if you want to spoil yourself a visit to Pere Bise’s Michelin starred restaurant right on the lake-side.

Geography

Over-looking Lac d’Annecy to the east is the edge of the Aravis mountain range. Along the eastern shores there are the mountains of Mont Veyrier, Les Dents de Lanfon and La Tournette (2351m) overlook the lake. The principal road on this side goes through Veyrier-du-Lac, Menthon-St-Bernard and Talloires.

The West side of Lac d’Annecy is bounded by the ?Parc naturel r?gional du Massif des Bauges?. The principal road along this side of the lake passes through Sevrier, St Jorioz and Duingt. At the end of the lake, known as the ?Bout du Lac? there’s a nature reserve with a very pretty, sign-posted, short walk.

The Bauges mountains, a limestone massif, is recognised as a GeoPark by UNESCO. The culminating point is Arcalod ( 2217m). Close to Annecy is the whale-back mountain of Le Semnoz, mainly tree covered, but the ridge is a great view point. In winter there are a couple of ski lifts and tracks for cross-country skiing. In summer herds of cows and goats roam amongst the alpine pastures.

Activities

Walking & Climbing

One of the most challenging walks close to the Lake is La Tournette ( 2351m). The starting point is usually accessed via the Col de la Forclaz and then by a rough track to a farm; the Chalet de l’Aulp. The farm also has a cafe and you can buy their cheeses too. From here a steep path sets off from here passing through an initial exposed traverse before reaching the Refuge de la Tournette. More easy scrambling and grassier slopes lead to the final section to the summit ?block? which is protected by chains and a short ladder takes you to the summit. A superb panorama awaits you.

There’s plenty of easier walking too. Short rambles to longer walks either in the Aravis or in the Bauges. You can find out more about my walks based around Lac d’Annecy and the Bauges on my website.

Swimming

If you enjoy swimming Lac d’Annecy is a wonderful spot. The water temperature can reach the low 20’s in summer. There are a number of ?beaches? where swimming is under the watchful eye of lifeguards within marked areas. You can of course swim elsewhere but at your own risk.

Cycling

On the west side of the lake the old railway line has been converted into a great cycle path that runs the full length of the lake. The cycle path is also shared by people on roller skates and even roller skis and the odd pedestrian too; so you need to be attentive. The east side of the lake is less easy for cyclists although there’s on-going works to increase the amount of cycle path. I tend to start on the East side from Doussard in the morning before the traffic increases. Near St Bernard it’s possible to take small backroads between the main road and the lake to avoid cycling with the traffic.

Paragliding

You are likely to see lots of paragliders flying here is the summer months as it’s one of the premier flying sites in France. If you would like to see what it is like you can take a flight with a professionally qualified instructor. There are many paragliding schools particularly near Echarvines above Talloires.

Golf

There are two golf courses in the area, one at Talloires and the other at Giez; on the way to Ugine.