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Simply Savoie

Guided walking – snowshoeing – via ferrata in the French Alps with Mark Tennent

Pralognan-la-Vanoise

La Cascade de la Fraiche

Via Ferrata Cascade de la Fraiche

The via ferrata Cascade de la Fraiche is short but climbs alongside a thundering waterfall.? The presence and noise of the waterfall gives an ambiance out of proportion to its length.

The approach to the via ferrata is short from the lovely village of Pralognan-la-Vanoise, a gateway to the Vanoise National Park.? The route starts from large boulders to the left (as you look at the waterfall).? Start by traversing out until you may feel the fine spray from the waterfall, refreshing on a hot summer’s day!? You now climb steeply up overlooking the waterfall hemmed in by steep rock walls.

After this introduction the route heads left and climbs up steep ground and over a couple of overlaps.? Now the Nepal Bridge beckons.? You can either face in, towards the waterfall, or out over the valley.? It’s all in the head as you slide your feet along the single cable holding the two wires above for your hands.? Reaching the other side the route disappears out of sight.? The continuation is enjoyable and finishes steeply to finish amongst pine trees.

Mark’s Opinion

A wonderful route in a wonderful place!? Highly recommended.

Tour of the Vanoise – Article for “Mountain Passions”

History

The Vanoise National Park was France’s first national park created in 1963 covering an area of 520 sq km. The culminating point of the Vanoise is the Grand Casse which rises to 3855m which was first climbed by William Matthews in 1860. The Park shares a 15km common boundary with the Grand Paradiso National Park in Italy. There are over 107 summits that exceed 3000m. The Vanoise, located in the department of Savoie, stretch from the border with Italy just beyond Val d’Is?re and Bonneval-sur-Arc to the Col de la Madeleine bounded by the valleys of the Tarentaise and Maurienne. The Savoie department formed part of the independent kingdom of Savoie Sardaigne that only became part of France in 1860. Savoie’s administrative centre is located in Chamb?ry.

The Vanoise National Park remain unspoilt due to strict controls on construction and development.

The Tour

The route described here is sometimes known as the Tour des Glaciers de la Vanoise.

One of the great beauties of this tour, apart from the superb scenery, is that you don’t drop down to a valley again until the end of the tour. Likewise you will not pass through villages, and walk close to roads. Having said this the tour is well provided with mountain refuges that provide simple accommodation and where you meet like-minded people.s

It is, in my opinion, a better tour than the one described passing through the village of Val d’Is?re and Tignes with the cancerous protuberances of the ski industry. Compared with the Tour du Mont Blanc you stay at altitude during the whole tour and need only touch tarmac road for 50m from start to finish.

There’s a choice of natural starting points, either Pralognan-la-Vanoise, (accessible from Moutiers in the Tarentaise valley) or Modane (in the Maurienne Valley). The route I will describe starts from Pralognan-la-Vanoise.

If you take the route in a clock-wise direction the first day is a gentle one that leads via the Lac des Vaches to the Col de la Vanoise; at the foot of the Grande Casse. The route follows the ancient ?Route du Sel?; an old trading route going back 100’s of years. The col, with the refuge Felix Faure, makes a wonderful spot to spend the night. The marmottes here are particularly friendly. If you have energy to spare you can explore the area around the col and perhaps walk up to the edge of the glacier.

The path now heads past Lac Bond and the Lac du Col de la Vanoise, only losing a little height, before contouring right around the hillside. There’s a junction here with the path to Entre deux Eaux and a road to Termignon in the Maurienne. The path climbs gently but in general it follows a natural balcony passing below the glacier de Pelve above and the deep gorge of the Doron du Termignon. The views to the south are outstanding, a panorama of mountains that form the Italian frontier. The only road across this range passes over the Col de Mont Cenis. Soon the Arpont refuge comes into sight, built into the moraine and thus protected from avalanches.

The journey continues high above the Maurienne crossing tumbling streams on the steep flanks of the mountains below the Dent Parrachee. The shepherd’s huts of La Loza perched on a spur are passed before a zig-zag descent crossing some steep ravines brings us out above the village of Aussois. Here two lakes, the Plan d’Amont (higher) and the Plan d’Aval (lower) provide hydro-electric power. A few ski lifts make their appearance as the national park’s boundary bends inwards. There’s a choice of refuges, Plan Sec, La Dent Parrachee or the Fond d’Aussois. Take your pick but I like the traditional, rustic, Dent Parrachee with Franck the friendly guardian.

Today’s ?normal route? crosses over the valley and passes via the Col Barbier (2287m) sharing the line of the GR5 on it’s journey south, before traversing more alpine pastures. Be aware of the ?patous? who may be guarding the herds of sheep (the best advice is to stop and wait for them to see that you are not a threat and then to move slowly). The route now drops down through pine woods and passes through the edge of a boulder field before regaining height to reach the L’Orgere. Here there’s the first sight of tarmac since leaving Pralognan-la-Vanoise and a chance for a bit more comfort if you wish. For those wanting more of a challenge you can take the ?direct? route via the Col de la Masse (2923m) with an equally challenging, for the knees, descent to the l’Org?re. This area is often frequented by chamois.

The next section climbs in a few zig-zags above l’Orgere before easing off and eventually passing the lac de la Partie. Above and to the left is the Aiguille Polset and the Glacier de G?broulaz however the route makes for the natural crossing point, the Col de la Chaviere (2796m), the highest ?obligatory? col on any GR in France. A short steep descent on loose ground leads to a meandering route through old moraine and boulder fields. Soon the refuge Peclet-Polset is reached, a very modern refuge, the old one burned down in a fire. If you want a little more exercise you can reach the Lac Blanc in about 15 mins from here.

The valley that extends below is the start of the Doron and soon you are amongst the pastures again on a well-defined track. Make a choice at the farm of Le Ritort either to carry on in the valley bottom or you can climb up and traverse below the Glacier de Genepy before regaining the valley floor near the hamlet of Prioux. Here the tarmac commences again but leave the end of the hamlet and walk down the left-hand bank to reach the road that’s crossed to immediately to follow a track all the way to Pralognan-la-Vanoise, and the end of the Tour.

Wildlife

Keep your eyes peeled for the relatively rare Bearded Vulture (Gypaete Barbu) with it’s wingspan approaching 3m! It feeds on carrion so is one of nature’s recyclers! It has the habit of dropping large bones from altitude to smash them open on rocks. There is a pair nesting not far from Peisey-Nancroix and the vultures have a territory of between 100 and 700 km2.

The park is famous for its large population of Bouquetin (Ibex) who were almost hunted to extinction. Now there’s approaching 4000 and they are relatively approachable. The males are identified most easily by their large, almost 1m long, scimitar shaped, knobbly horns. The females have shorter horns that are less ?knobbly?.

Chamois (Rupicapra rupicapra) are highly agile and have hooves adapted to their preferred terrain of steep rocky ground where they feel safe from the threat of two-legged hunters. They have a white ?blaze? on their cheeks and short horns that curve just at the top. If you’re lucky you may see a young chamois (cabri) with it’s mother.

You will undoubtedly encounter the cuddly looking Marmotte but your first awareness of it’s presence is likely to be a shrill whistle. This whistle is their warning cry to alert other members of their group that there’s a threat. The nature of the whistle changes to reflect whether it’s a ground or aerial threat.

Flowers

Wild flowers are probably at their best in June and early July. This depends on how quickly the winter snows melt. Keep your eyes open for the iconic edelweiss and the g?n?py that gives it’s name to the pale-ish liqueur. Naturally you should come across the stunningly beautiful blue gentiane. Please note that in the Vanoise National Park that picking the flowers is forbidden.

When

The main limiting factor is availability of the mountain huts (refuges); the second, in the spring, being the snow remaining from the winter. The refuges normally open around mid-June (exact dates can be found on www.refuges-vanoise.com and they typically close in mid-September despite the weather often being good at this time of year.

Equipment

You should only require ?normal? mountain walking attire plus a sheet sleeping bag for using in the refuges. You can read an article here on staying in mountain refuges (Link to Simply Savoie).

Getting there:

The principle airports are Lyon, Geneva (in Switzerland), Grenoble. Chamb?ry’s airport is principally a winter point of entry for skiers flocking to the ski resorts.

By rail the TGV gets you quickly to Chamb?ry (only 2hrs 30 from Paris) and then you can easily get to either Modane or Moutiers. From Moutiers buses or taxis are available to Pralognan-la-Vanoise.

Pralognan la Vanoise

Pralognan-la-Vanoise, usually shortened to Pralogan or even Pralo’ is a ?gateway? to the Vanoise National Park. The village nestles amongst the high Alpine peaks of the Vanoise with the culminating peak, the Grande Casse (3855 m) close by. The village is at an altitude of 1400m.

Whilst there are a few ski lifts Pralognan keeps it’s village feel; village first and resort second. Pralognan is in a cul-de-sac with only one road in from the valley of the Tarentaise. To reach Pralognan you drive from Albertville up the Tarentaise valley to Moutiers. From here the road leads up via Bozel passing turns for the big, monster ski resorts of Meribel and Courchevel. Keep straight on and the road zig-zags up before you arrive at the village.

There’s a range of local services for the visitor, hotels, appartments and campsites. Higher up there are mountain refuges too with those in closer proximity accessible to most willing to make a short walk.

Walking & Climbing

Pralognan makes an ideal base to explore the Vanoise. The Tour des Glaciers de la Vanoise sets off from the village following the ancient Route du Sel to the Col de la Vanoise (2517 m) passing by the picture postcard Lac des Vaches. Two Grande Randonn?e (long distance walks) pass through, the GR5 on it’s way from Lake Geneva to the Mediterranean and the GR55.

Following the river Doron de Chaviere you can either walk, drive or take the ?navette? (free local bus) to the car park and end of the road at the hamlet of Prioux; only open in summer. Here you can also enjoy a meal or drink at one of the caf? / restaurants. To go further it’s on foot only and a short walk can take you to the refuge of the Roc de la Peche. For those going further you can continue to the alpine farm at Le Ritord and on to the Refuge Peclet-Polset.

Beyond the Refuge Peclet-Polset are the azure waters of the Lac Blanc nestling below the Col du Soufre and you can make out the edge of the Glacier de Gebroulaz. Another option is to head on to the Col de Chaviere (2796m) that is one of the highest cols on a Grand Randonnee.

The Col d’Aussois gives access to the Maurienne valley and a short detour to the Pointe de l’Observatoire gains the magical 3000m point. Further on along the ridge is the dramatic Point de l’Echelle.

Rock climbers can find short routes close to the centre of Pralognan but if you want long mountain routes you are spoilt for choice. Try the Aiguille de la Vanoise, the ?shark’s fin? of a mountain dominating the Lac des Vaches.

Via Ferrata

A short walk from the village centre is the Cascade de la Fraiche an impressive waterfall that thunders down between steep rocky walls. It’s the location for a great via ferrata that goes by the same name. The route starts on the left (looking up) and follows an edge that depending on the water level in the stream is sometimes bathed in a cooling spray from the waterfall! The most memorable part is crossing high above the waterfall on two steel wires to gain the other side. The route finishes up more steep rock before finishing amongst pine trees in the shade. A great couple of hours on a hot summer’s day! A good path leads back to the village.

Recommend Places

The Hotel Le Grand Bec *** at the entrance to the village is family owned and you can be assured of a warm welcome and excellent food. To relax there is an outdoor pool and inside another pool, sauna and jacuzzi.

Snowshoeing at Pralognan-la-Vanoise

Pralognan-la-Vanoise, Pralognan or Pralo’ for short, is a ?gateway? to the Vanoise National Park and one of my favourite bases there is the Hotel Grand Bec.

Pralognan nestles in the valley surrounded on all sides by high mountains. There is only one way in by road, summer or winter. In winter the village is literally at the end of the road and the only way on is by foot on skis or snowshoes. In summer you can drive up to a car park near the hamlet of Prioux or to the hamlet of Les Fontanettes.? Pralognan retains a traditional village feel; unspoilt by the ravages of the ski industry.

Today’s walk took us up the continuation of the valley. Our snowshoe walk started from the camp site and we took advantage of the shelter of the pine forests as we gained height along the tumbling river Doron. Soon snow started to fall. Ours were the only tracks in the snow as we passed the hamlet of Prioux. High above the edge of the Glacier de la Vanoise appeared from the clouds as patches of sunlight spotlighted the hills. Approaching the Refuge du Roc de la Peche a lone male ibex stood sentinel, dwarfed by the huge slopes.
We entered the ?boot room? at the Refuge and exchanged boots for hut shoes. Inside a hot chocolate and an omelette supplemented our picnic lunch. We were the only customers until a guide appeared on skis with a couple of clients. A great day.

The Grande Casse, the Vanoise mountain range’s highest peak at 3855m, dominates the Col de la Vanoise, today’s objective. We ?cheated? by making use of two chairlifts to gain Les Barmettes saving around 500m of ascent from Pralognan. Avalanche transceivers on and checked we left the skiers behind us and soon entered the ?heart? of the Vanoise National Park itself. The mountain side to the left attracted our attention and we soon made out numerous ibex feeding on the south facing terraces. Onwards and upwards, as we roughly followed the line of the summer path, the ancient ?Route du Sel?. Our only company a couple of ski mountaineers. We reached and crossed the snow and ice-covered Lac des Vaches; a picturesque spot in the summer beneath the imposing rock face of the Aiguille de la Vanoise.

The glaciated Grand Couloir on the Grande Casse drew the eye as we reached the area of Lac Long, not far from the Col de la Vanoise itself. After an inspection of the slope leading towards the refuge the decision was taken to have our picnic surrounded by the wild grandure of the mountains surrounding us.

Four other days, all different, but each special in their own way, completed the week. A visit to the valley of Champagny-le-Haut was rewarded with a flying display by the Bearded Vulture. Setting off from Chamberanger took us up through snow-covered alpine pastures and pine woods to reach a little alpine hut looking out over mountains stretching away in the distance. Passing through the old, almost-abandoned village of Montcharvet underneath Le Dent du Villard. Discovering the lower slopes of the Dent du Portetta high above Pralgonan.