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Simply Savoie

Guided walking – snowshoeing – via ferrata in the French Alps with Mark Tennent

Hiking

“Out of Africa” – Kenyans in the Vanoise

I recently organised a private four day walk in the Vanoise National Park for an extended family from Kenya. They wanted to spend three nights in more comfortable mountain refuges with walks that weren’t too taxing. The youngest child was nine years old and grandfather eighty years old. Quite a challenging requirement. It was particular interesting for me to chat about Kenya a country where I worked on two occasions for over six months and where my mother grew up.

We met at the station in Modane in the heart of the Maurienne valley with close links to Italy thanks to the Frejus tunnel and parallel rail tunnel. The weather had been extremely hot, in the mid-30’s, and the forecast threatened thunderstorms for the late afternoon. With this in mind and the fact that we couldn’t leave until lunch time I decided that it was a wise move to adjust the starting point to give more flexibility should the storms arrive.

We spent our first night at the welcoming Refuge l’Aiguille Doran close the the valley d’Orgere where Fabienne the guardienne made us at home. Dinner, as I’ve come to expect, was excellent and you would be happy to eat as well in a restaurant.

The following morning the forecast was so far correct with thunderstorms dying out. The forecast indicated that residual showers would die out by midday and the forecast for the afternoon was for the weather to continue to improve with blue skies forecast the following day.

We set off with light rain falling as we passed the L’Orgere refuge, a ?gateway refuge? to the Vanoise National Park. Climbing in zig-zags in the pine woods a rumble of thunder announced it’s presence. Clearing the tree line faint glimmers in the sky looked promising and as we started the rising traverse towards the Lac de la Partie big blue patches of sky developed. It appeared that the forecast was spot on.

Reaching the path junction with the variation that drops down to the hamlet of Polset at about 2500m clould rolled in again with light rain falling. It seemed it was simply the valley clouds rising up and dispersing.

We could just still make out the Col de la Chaviere at 2796m, and the highest col on a GR in France with some large patches of neve (old consolidated snow) beneath. We moved on at a slow but steady pace. At about 2600m the ?rain? started to become ?lumpy? and soon it was snowing!

Given that we were only a short distance below the col and the Refuge Peclet-Polset an hours downhill walk beyond it was clear that the quickest option was to get over the col and start losing height. I took the children and Mum on, kicking steps in the snow. We got to the col and I got out my ?Bothy Bag? (like a tent without poles) to provide shelter from the cooling wind and increased warmth. If you’ve never used one they really are a God-send in poor weather. I glissaded (skiing on the soles of my boots) back down to help Dad and father on the final snow slope.

The descent on the Peclet-Polset side of the col is quite steep and on relatively loose and unstable ground, made more so with the recent overnight rain and snow. I guided Mum and the children down to where the ground eased and got out the ?Bothy Bag? again whilst I climbed back up to help guided Dad & father down too.

Despite all being well clothed the children were feeling cold and I moved on with them to generate some warmth and to reach relatively warmer altitudes.

Finally we arrived at the Refuge Peclet-Polset and I order hot chocolates and some crepes with Nutella for the children and honey for myself.

I reflected on the day and how the weather forecast and how the observed weather led us on into a situation that could have been potentially have turned out less favourably. As I say to people, ?There’s a fine line between adventure and mis-adventure?. Clearly, as a professional guide / leader it’s a judgement.

The following day dawned with blue skies and a dusting of snow on the Pointe de l’Echelle (3442m). Today’s itinerary was an easy one as we were booked into the 5***** Refuge Roc de la Peche complete with steam room and jacuzzi! It’s a ?Courchevel? refuge that caters for ski instructors and mountain guides in the winter who arrive off-piste from the ski resorts of the 3 Valleys and notably Courchevel; the ?Disneyland des Alpes?.

Leaving our sacks at the refuge we made a short detour to see the spectacular blue-turquoise waters of the Lac Blanc below the Col du Souffre. Marmottes were out warming themselves in the early morning sun but sadly I couldn’t make out any chamois or ibex that often frequent some of the slopes.

On our way down the valley we stopped off at the Alpage de Ritord where the farm makes cheese using a huge copper cauldron heated by a wood fire beneath. I explained the process and how Beaufort d’Alpage is made. We enjoyed a drink before heading on to the Roc de la Peche. Naturally I made full use of the steam room and jacuzzi!

Our last day took us on down the valley to the hamlet of Prioux where I’d arranged for a taxi to take us to Moutiers for our onward journeys, the family to Geneva for their flights and me to Albertville to pick up my car again.

Snowshoeing to the Col de la Vanoise

A clear sky greeted me as I opened the curtains on Wednesday morning.? The drive to Pralognan-la-Vanoise via Bozel was pleasant with the early signs of spring.? Soon the road started to climb in a series of zig-zags and eventually I reached Pralogan and the meeting point with Finn and his son, the Hotel Grand Bec.

After sorting out snowshoes and poles we walked the short distance through the village to the ski lift office.? We took passes for two of the chairlifts that save 500m of climbing and reach the Refuge des Barmettes at the entrance to the Vanoise National Park.? The vista as we rode the lifts was stunning with clear blue skies the back drop to the peaks including the Grande Casse and the Aiguille de la Vanoise.? Arriving at the top it was time to put on snowshoes and sort out some other equipment.? A short walk took us across a bridge and the start of the ancient route du sel, currently well buried under the winter snows.? Just at this point I caught a glimpse of one of the Vanoise’s resident “Bearded Vultures” (Gypaete Barbu) with it’s 2m 80m wingspan gliding effortlessly along the cliffs to our left.? We stopped to enjoy this spectacle as it searched for carcasses released from winter’s grip or those unfortunate animals to have been caught by an avalanche.

We reached the Lac des Vaches buried under the snow and ice under the shadows of the Aiguille de la Vanoise.? A respite from the steady climb and we could see the glacier of the Grand Couloir on the Grande Casse.? I wondered if there was anyone skiing it.? A final climb lead to where the path turns to pass above Lac Long and in about an hour we arrived at the Refuge Felix-Faure (Col de la Vanoise).? The refuge was open to cater for the ski touring / mountaineering and we went into the warmth of the hut.? We enjoyed some hot soup and for Finn and his son a filling omellette.

The return journey saw us take a “short-cut” under the Aiguille de la Vanoise which enabled us to find some cold powedery snow; much nicer to descend.? Eventually we reached the flat bottom of the valley and the stream.? Here we wander along it’s banks and saw ibex on the grassy shelves on the cliffs above.? Finally back at the chairlift for an easy descent to the valley.? A brilliant day.

Walking the Blanc-Martel footpath in the Verdon

I took a detour on my way from the Pyrenees to my home at St Paul sur Isere via the Verdon in the Haute Provence. I was keen to walk the Sentier Blanc-Martel, the classic footpath in the depths of the Verdon Gorge. The path is name after a geologist, Edouard-Alfred Martel and his guide Isidore Blanc a teacher from the village of Rougon who explored the Verdon in 1905.

I camped for the night at Moustiers-Sainte-Marie and got up early at 6.00 a.m. to enjoy the freshness of the morning. A drive along twisting roads took me to La Palud-sur-Verdon where I turned off to take the road to the Chalet de la Maline; the starting point of the Sentier Blanc-Martel. I took 3 litres of water with me as, apart from going down to the river itself, there’s no water available on the path.? The path left just next to the Chalet (a ?refuge? owned by the CAF – French Alpine Club). I followed descending zig-zags amongst box and scub oak. Having left so early I met no one ? great! The sun was just hitting the opposite side of the gorge. Soon I was down a short distance above the river and a path junction indicated the bridge of the L’Estellie.? The sound of birds in the trees and the sound of the river Verdon below me were the only sounds I could hear, apart from the crunch of my boots on the path. Soon I was at the L’Eboulis des Guegues, a large scree shoot. To avoid erosion stone steps led down to a stabilised path across the scree to more steps and an iron handrail to reassure the more nervous.

The next junction I encountered indicated La Mescla to the right and the Baume aux Boeufs and the Breche Imbert to the left. The path climbed and I came to a short section of metal steps that led to a view point at the top of the Breche Imbert. The Breche (gap) is the ?crux? of the walk. I stopped to take some photographs and drink some water and take a snack.? A long section of metal steps with handrails made getting down the far side easy with several intermediate ?landings?. Fortunately I had still met no one and the narrow ladders would make passing ?interesting? if the route was busy.

The path continued with shafts of sunlight filtering through the small oak trees. A tunnel now, the remains of an abandoned project to bring water to cities of Toulon and Marseille in the South of France. The first tunnel, 115m long, was straight and I didn’t need to get my headtorch out. The second tunnel, the Trescaire, was another matter as it is 650m long and curved. The headtorch was pretty much essential although towards the end several galleries gave glimpses of the Couloir Samson (a narrow gorge in the Verdon).? Finishing the tunnel by some more metal steps I walked just above the roaring river Verdon and crossed a bridge over the Le Bau, a small tributary. I met a parking place but crossed over and up a path amongst scrub that took me up to the Pointe Sublime. Here I sat down for more to drink and eat before hitching a lift back to my car with some Italian tourists. A great day out.

Coastal Walking on the Cote d’Azur

Walking on the Cote d'Azur?The South of France, and the Cote d’Azur, bring images of beaches, crowds and traffic jams.? Go ?out of season? and you can enjoy pleasant temperatures and a lack of crowds especially when you enjoy walking.? Choose times outside of the French school holidays, the bank holiday weekends (of which there are often several in May).

We recently enjoyed a short break in this area.? We drove south for about 4 ? 5 hours via Grenoble, Sisteron and Aix-en-Provence.? We arrived at La Londe before following a small road through vineyards between the coast and the low-lying hills behind.? We stayed just outside the pretty village of Bormes-les-Mimosas in the Var department, well worth a visit.? Lying off the coast are the islands of Porquerolles, Port Cros ( a national park) and Levant.? Boats can take you out to these islands from La Londe. I’m not one for spending hours lying on beaches frying in the sun.? However the chance to soak up some warmth after a winter in the Alps and do some walking was welcome.

The first day we set off on foot from the beach at La Londe.? The footpath remains close to the sea at all times as the land behind is all privately owned. It’s thanks to the ?Conservatoire Littorale? that this path exists (along with others on the coast).? After rounding the first point, the Pointe de l’Argentiere, we came to the beach of Le Pellegrin, a lovely sandy beach and crystal clear water.? Too tempting for Patricia who was soon enjoying the rather bracing 15 deg. Water for a dip. ? Our walk continued via the Pointe du Pellegrin to the beach of Leoube; with the chateau and vineyards of the same name inland.? The path crossed the Cap de Leoube and we soon arrived at the gorgeous beach of L’Estagnol.? Here we came across more people as there’s a car park behind the beach and the L’Estagnol restaurant with local specialities set amongst shady pines.? Time for another swim!

The following day we drove the short distance to La Faviere.? Leaving the car in a shady spot beneath the pines we crossed a beach to pick up the coastal path.? The path takes you out towards the headland, the Cap Benat.? The Cap Benat is a private estate so unless you are a resident the only way to enjoy the coastline is via this path.? The path is quite ?sporting? as it climbs from sea-level to traverse above cliffs hemmed in by signs reminding you that you are not welcome to penetrate inland.? Despite this there are great views along the coast.? Our turning point was the Port du Pradet where we ate our picnic.

The next day we left our car and walked to the beach of L’Estagnol so that we could do a circular walk.? Leaving the beach we followed the coastal path to the beach at Cabasson.? Here we went as close as you can get to the fort of Bregancon which is one of the French President’s retreats.? Guided visits can be booked.? We found a footpath that avoided walking on the road that led back to our car passing eucalyptus and cork oak trees.? For those of you who enjoy a ?degustation? there’s several vineyards to visit including: La Loubie, Bregancon and Malherbe. On our way home we drove north through Bormes-les-Mimosas to the small village of Collobrieres, ?the capital of Les Maures??? A great little break and a chance to explore another area.

Highlights of the Tour of the Vanoise

The Vanoise massif (mountain range) is one of my favourite mountain areas.? The main area of the Vanoise is protected from the tentacles of the alpine ski industry by being a national park with strict regulations halting so-called ?development?.

With the heatwave still in full swing it was great to head into the mountains and lower temperatures.? The Tour of the Vanoise stays high for most of its journey, rarely dropping below 2000m except for the start and end of the trek.

The first day, having reached the Col de la Vanoise and the Refuge Felix Faure, we took a walk ?off-the-beaten-track? in search of wildlife.? We weren’t disappointed spotting several chamois. One, having moved a short distance, settled down to observe us from the top of a large boulder ? watching you, watching me.? Chamois are such elegant creatures in their preferred environment of rocky terrain high in the mountains.? Along the way we also came across the emblematic flower of the Alps; the edelweiss.

The next day we stopped to picnic by the Lacs des Lozieres; beautiful mountain lakes nestling at the foot of the Mont Pelve and the glaciers of the Vanoise.? The temptation to take a dip was too strong and astonishingly, even at 2400m, the water was warm enough to enjoy a few minutes in its cool embrace!? Further on below the Dome de Chasseforet we came across several female ibex with their young, called? ?cabri?, close by.? One of the females posed, perched on a rocky ledge beneath an overhang.? As we moved on she decided to come down, nonchalantly skipping across steep rock ledges to regain the ground.

A subsequent day a huge shadow cast on the ground drew our attention to a bearded vulture soaring effortlessly in the afternoon thermals.? It was joined by a juvenile vulture with its darker colouring.? Magnificent birds.

Mountain refuges come in all shapes and sizes.? One of my favourite spots is the Refuge de l’Aiguille Doran just below the valley of the Orgere.? We passed the time before dinner playing boules on the ?court? overlooking the Maurienne valley.? Fabienne’s cooking was, as usual, superb and we were treated to a lovely homemade soup followed by pork fillet in a creamy sauce.? For a mountain refuge with character, La Dent Parrachee, perched on a knoll above the twin lakes above Aussois is well worth a visit.? The Dent Parrachee is managed by Franck who presides over the refuge like a master of ceremonies.?? The new refuges at the Col de la Vanoise and the Refuge de l’Arpont gave me mixed feelings.? The ?soul? of the old refuges appeared to be missing; perhaps I’m too sentimental.? The new refuges are however very functional and clearly much easier to manage for the guardians.

A Walk Above Lake Annecy

Lake Annecy, with its turquoise waters, was the backdrop for our walk today. Annecy is reached in under 40 minutes from Geneva which makes it an ideal location for a short break.

Today we were heading for the mountains that dominate the Eastern side of lake Annecy. The principle tops are those of La Tournette (2351m) and Les Dents de Lanfon. Across the lake the limestone mountains of the Bauges spread out before us. The Bauges are not high, the highest summit being the Pointe d’Arcalod (2217m), but the tops are frequently guarded by steep and rocky slopes.

We reached the starting point for our walk after driving up past the Col de la Forclaz. On a sunny day a steady stream of paragliders take to the air from just above the col here. Leaving the car we walked up through the alpine pastures to reach the Chalet de l’Aulp. Today it was shut up as the cows have not yet come up to their summer pastures. Other walkers were heading for La Tournette which was still sporting large snow-fields on its steep flanks guarded by high limestone cliffs.

We followed a path, initially through woods and crossed a couple of gullies. Birds were singing in the trees and a squirrel hopped across the path in front of us. Soon we came out of the shade of the trees into green, alpine meadows and the Col des Nantets a good spot for a drink and a snack. From here we could see down towards the town of Thones in the Aravis the gateway to the villages of Le Grand Bornand and St Jean de Sixt.

Passing the chalet des Nantets the path zig-zagged up through sparse pines to reach rockier terrain. A short rocky passage, protected by a hand-line, brought us into a grassy hanging valley. Crocuses added a splash of colour against the still hay-coloured grass. A few old patches of snow lay in the hollows. We passed by the Chalets de l’Aulp Rian, deserted for now but soon to be a farmer’s home for the long days of summer whilst watching over herds of cows.

A signpost indicated the Col des Fretes below the imposing Dents des Lanfons however we continued climbing a shallow re-entrant. At the top limestone outcrops, stunted pine trees and a 360 degree view; time for our picnic. The backdrop of Lac d’Annecy, the mountains of the Aravis and beyond the snow and ice-covered mass of Mont Blanc and its satellite peaks.