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Simply Savoie

Guided walking – snowshoeing – via ferrata in the French Alps with Mark Tennent

Hiking

Why go snowshoeing?

Snowshoeing has been around since man searched for a way of getting around in deep snow. It’s now a very popular and growing, winter activity.

  • It’s fun! It is suitable for all, young or old, fit or not so fit and it can be enjoyed by the whole family.
  • It’s easy! ?If you can walk, you can snowshoe?. Within a few minutes you’ll feel at ease and in control.
  • It’s inexpensive! Snowshoes can be purchased for between 100 and 150 Euro and there’s no need for an expensive lift pass!
  • It’s as relaxed or as adventurous as you wish! Take a gentle stroll amongst snow-draped trees or push your limits ? the choice is yours. In fact it’s an ideal aerobic, low-impact, exercise.
  • In touch with nature! Snowshoeing allows you to move almost silently so experiencing the peace and tranquillity of the snow muffled landscape. It’s a great way to see the wildlife. In Savoie you may see chamois, ibex (bouquetin), or deer that you will never see in the noisy ski resorts.

Equipment

Snowshoes

TSL Snowshoe
TSL Snowshoe

Popular brands include: TSL, Tubbs, GV and Inook. For those unfamiliar with snowshoes it may conjure up images of a pair of tennis racket-like things attached to your feet. In fact modern snowshoes are high-tech and made from plastic or are aluminium framed. The size of snowshoes is related to your weight so, in general, snowshoes for women are smaller than they are for men. Most are very simple to adjust for the size of your footwear and then a simple binding system attaches them to your boot.

The idea of the snowshoe is to spread your weight so you don’t sink into the snow; or at least not nearly so much, giving access to places impossible on foot. Going up hill is made easier with the use of a heel lift feature which means there’s less strain on your calf muscles. Grip is provided by small metal spikes (crampons) under the snowshoe that will stop you slipping on hard snow or patches of ice. At the front there are ?claws? or ?front points? which provide grip when going directly up steep slopes.

Ski or Trekking Poles

A pair of ski poles / trekking poles with large ?snow baskets? can aid your stability and also provide additional impetus to your stride.

Boots

You don’t need special boots; a pair of good walking boots / snow boots is ideal, with gaiters or a pair of trousers with a snow cuff the ideal companion to avoid snow entering the top of your boots.

Clothing

No special clothes are needed. Warm clothes e.g. fleece jackets, wind/waterproof jacket, hat, gloves as you would wear for walking in the winter.

Extras

Don’t forget your sunglasses and some sun cream! A small rucsac is recommended to carry an extra windproof /waterproof top, fleece jacket, a drink and snacks.

Technique ? a few tips

Snowshoeing doesn’t have a steep learning curve but a few tips will soon have you moving around confidently enjoying a new-found freedom.

On the flat

Your style of walking will need to take account of the width of the snowshoe and to avoid stepping on the other snowshoe. It’s best to start out on a level path or track whilst you get accustomed to them. Turning around is best accomplished by turning in small steps until facing in the new direction or doing a ?kick turn?.

Downhill

Going downhill is easiest, and the most fun, in deep powdery snow. Raise the toe slightly allowing the tail of the snowshoe to come into contact with the snow first. Try to walk confidently with a good transfer of weight from one foot to the other. The snowshoe may slide forward a bit but avoid the temptation to lean back. You can use your pole to provide extra balance but avoid using them directly in front of your body. On firm snow place the snowshoe flat on the ground so that the crampons can ?bite?.

Uphill

Unless it’s a very short distance, ?zig-zag? up the slope using the terrain to best advantage. This puts less strain on the legs and you’ll gain height surprisingly easily. If you encounter a very steep bank you can use the ?claws?/?front points? of the snowshoe.

Traversing

This is easiest in soft snow conditions where you can still place the snowshoe down normally. When the snow is firm you will need to roll the ankle to allow the snowshoe to lie flat on the slope, thus allowing the crampons to “bite”.

Etiquette

If you’re snowshoeing avoid walking on prepared ?pistes? for cross-country skiers as the railway like ?tracks? are damaged by walking on them. Skiers may also approach fast and you don’t want to be involved in a collision. In ski resorts try and avoid the pistes but if you have to, cross quickly or walk up or down the edge of the piste.

Precautions

Danger Avalanches Sign
Beware of Avalanches!

Naturally if you go into more mountainous terrain you should be aware of the risk of avalanches. You should then carry normal avalanche equipment (avalanche transceiver, shovel and probe) and most importantly know how to use it. Let someone know where you are going and when you intend to be back.  Read my article on Mountain Rescue in the French Alps.

Where?

You can go snowshoeing anywhere there is snow!

On paths and tracks you don’t need much depth however going through woods it’s best with a bit more depth that covers The ground can be flat, undulating or even on more mountainous terrain. The world’s your oyster!  Of course you can always join me on a Guided Snowshoe holiday.

Article copyright: Mark Tennent – all rights reserved

Unqualified walking guide in France – the risks

The immediate risk is that your unqualified walking guide or hiking leader could be arrested at any time leaving your holiday ruined. You may then find yourself required to give a statement to the police as part of their investigation. Clearly not how you wish to spend your holiday.

An unqualified walking guide – your safety at risk

Most importantly your safety and well-being could be at serious risk. What if the weather suddenly changes? Can your leader navigate in difficult conditions? If your route crosses steep, rocky terrain or even makes use of steep ladders and wire protected passages does your leader have the skills and experience to keep you safe? Early summer in the Alps large areas of old snow can make normally easy routes very serious with a trip or a slip potentially having serious or fatal consequences. Can your leader protect your safety?

The benefits of using a qualified walking or trekking guide

No. 1 ? Your safety & well-being.

  • Your leader will have been assessed on their navigation and map reading skills. In good weather finding the right route may be easy but even in summer in the Alps snow can rapidly cover footpaths and way marks. Low cloud may suddenly make route finding more challenging.
  • Your leader will have been trained and assessed in the use of the rope to protect you on steep ladders, wire protected sections of the route or even large areas of snow lingering from the winter. These can look innocuous but a slip and an uncontrolled slide may have very serious consequences.
  • Your leader has to undergo regular refresher training or ?Continued Professional Development? to ensure their skills are up-to-date.
  • Your leader is required to have a good knowledge of the flora and fauna helping you to get the most from your holiday.
  • Your leader will have been trained in First Aid, usually a course specifically for remote environments in the mountains.
  • Your leader is required to hold Professional Indemnity Insurance.

By insisting on only using a qualified Accompagnateur en Montagne (AeM) or International Mountain Leader (IML) you are assured of a leader who has gone through a thorough training and assessment programme.

It is also worth checking how your holiday insurance may be affected. In some cases your insurance may be invalid if you are injured when in the company of an unqualfied leader potentially leaving you with a large bill.

France has strict laws (references below) on who can lead walking, hiking and trekking tours. Indeed this applies to other outdoor sport professionals such as mountain guides (guide de haute montagne), rock climbing and ski instructors. There’s no requirement for leading genuine friends or family. The purpose of the laws is protect the public.

Consequences for an unqualified walking guide or mountain leaders

Regular checks (or contr?les) are carried out by inspectors from the DDCS or the Peleton Gendarmerie de Haute Montagne (PGHM) who also carry out mountain rescues. If they suspect someone is leading a group they will ask for proof of the leaders qualifications and to see if they have registered to work in France. Should they discover that a person is not qualified they may arrest them on the spot. These unqualified leaders face up to 1 years imprisonment and / or up to a Euro 15,000 fine.

A person who is remunerated for leading walks or hikes for (which includes payment in kind) is required to hold the relevant qualification or its recognised equivalent. They are also required to register with the French Sports Ministry. Those who work on a regular basis or are resident in France will also be issued with a ?Carte Professionnelle? with their photograph and a link to the qualifications they hold.

Protectionism?

It’s often decried as France being protectionist. Not true. Any person who holds the recognised qualification or equivalent may work in France regardless of nationality. As a UK national it was a straightforward administrative matter to have my International Mountain Leader qualification recognised. The same is true for IFMGA Mountain Guides and ski instructors. There are at least 350 British ski instructors working perfectly legally in France with no hindrance.

References

Code du sport – Article L212-1 (in French)

Code du sport – Article L212-2

Staying in a Mountain Refuge

Staying in a mountain refuge high in the mountains!

Spend a night in a mountain refuge high in the mountains!? Watch the sunset like you’ve never experienced it before.? Don’t let the word ?refuge? put you off.? Staying a night in a mountain refuge (or hut) is a great experience.? It’s a great way of ?bonding? together as a family, group of friends or work colleagues.? Meet people with people from all over the world with one thing in common; a love of the mountains.? At the end of the day the mountains become even more special as the majority of walkers head back down to the valley; but not you. The French Alps have a network of mountain refuges many owned by the French Alpine Club (Club Alpin Francais) or in this area by the Vanoise National Park with a few being privately owned.? Staying in a mountain refuge allows you to complete hut-to-hut treks like the Tour of the Vanoise.

Reservations

It is always best to reserve the refuge in advance.? Firstly it avoids finding the refuge full.? Although you’re unlikely to be turned away (if it’s a remote refuge).? However you may find yourself sleeping on the floor in the dining room!

You should be able to contact the guardian of the refuge either by phone or email.? If you’re currently staying at one refuge the guardian there may be happy to phone ahead for you to the next refuge.? In some areas, like the Vanoise National Park, the huts have their own online reservation system where you can reserve all the refuges for a particular trip in one place; saving time and a lot of phone calls.

If for whatever reason you can’t make it or change your route do remember to contact the hut to let them know.? First of all the hut may be full and others may be turned away and secondly there may be concerns for your safety.

Cost

At the time of writing (2014) the cost of half-board in French huts is typically around Euro 45.? If you want to self-cater some refuges have an area for self-catering.? If you are a member of the French Alpine Club, or a member of another club with reciprocal rights? you will normally have a discount on the hut fees. AnchorIt’s worth remembering that the vast majority of mountain refuges do not accept credit cards!

Arriving at the Refuge

At the entrance there’s normally a boot room with ?hut? shoes, sometimes like ?Crocs?, to change into.? Don’t go into the main part of the hut in your walking boots unless you want to upset the guardian.

The first thing to do after making sure you’ve changed your footwear is make yourself known to the guardian.? He or she will then allocate you your bedspace.? They are also likely to ask which refuge you’ve come from and which refuge or route you intend to do the next day.? Now’s the time too to request a packed lunch for the following day and if asked tell them what drink you want for breakfast from the choice given.

The Guardian

The guardian is the most important person at the refuge.? It is him or her, who manages the refuge and ensure it functions efficiently.? No easy task.? Remember refuges are not hotels and doing your bit to help by following the ?etiquette? of the hut will make your stay, and that of others, more pleasant.? Frequently the guardian manages the hut on behalf of the owner be it the French Club Alpin Francais (CAF) or another body.

What to expect

AnchorFacilities

Refuges have become more luxurious than they once were reflecting changes in society.? However refuges in the high mountains may still be pretty basic.? Plugs / sockets for charging mobile phones or other portable electronic devices may not be available or very limited in number.? I’ve not come across wi-fi either and the mobile (or cellular) network may be poor or non-existent so plan accordingly.? If you need to contact another refuge on your trip ask the guardian and they will usually make it for you if you ask nicely.

Rooms

The more modern huts have relatively small dormitories now with may be 8 to a room however you may still come across the older style multi-occupany bunks with maybe 20 to a room on two levels with narrow single mattresses side by side on the base.? Cosy!

Showers

Most refuges on trekking routes have showers.? The high mountain refuges typically will usually not, as water is at a premium.? Some refuges make an additional charge by selling a token that also limits the amount of time you get with the water so make sure you’re organised before putting in the token.? It’s not much fun being all ?soaped up? and running out of water!

Meals

If you are staying on a half-board (demi-pension) basis then there will be usually a copious set evening meal.? Typically there’s soup; a main course with plenty of carbohydrate in the form of pasta / polenta and a desert of some type;; may be cheese.? I have had the experience where I’ve eaten fresh salmon!? Guardians are sometimes generous with a digestif like the regional genepy in Savoie / Haute Savoie.? Breakfast is typically? a? choice of coffee, hot chocolate or tea with bread, butter and jam.? Most refuges will also offer packed lunches but remember to order this on arrival the night before.

Remember that all the food and provisions for the hut are brought up from the valley; quite frequently by helicopter that explains that the prices are a bit higher and that there may not always be a great choice.

Winter Rooms

The huts guardian is normally at the hut from mid-June to mid-September.? It is clearly a good idea to check!
Outside of the main summer opening period there may be occasions when the guardian mans the hut.? Typically this is during the winter ski-mountaineering season.? If the guardian is not there huts usually have a ?winter? room that is left unlocked.? Here you will find bunks, blankets, and pillows plus limited cooking facilities.? So you will need to bring all your own food with you.? Hut fees are usually put in a ?letter box?.

Hut ?Equipment?

Footwear

When you arrive at the refuge it is normal to leave your walking boots in the boot room and here you will also find hut shoes (Croc type things or similar) for wearing in the hut.? You can if you wish carry some simple flip-flops of course in your sack.

Sheet Sleeping Bag

Don’t forget to bring a sheet sleeping bag or ?sac a viande? as it’s known sometimes.? These are now available in really lightweight fabrics including silk so take up very little space and weigh next to nothing.? It helps keep the bottom sheet and duvet / blankets cleaner.

Bedding

Blankets or increasingly duvets and pillows are provided in the dormitories so there’s no need to carry a sleeping bag.

Ear Plugs

It’s worth having some ear plugs with you in case there’s some snorers in the room with you.

Tips

If you’re leaving early in the morning before day break it’s worth doing a reconnaissance of the departure route to avoid wasting time in the dark in the morning.

Rubbish – you should take your rubbish with you as all rubbish has to be taken down to the valley or less usually now burnt.

Pralognan la Vanoise

Pralognan-la-Vanoise, usually shortened to Pralogan or even Pralo’ is a ?gateway? to the Vanoise National Park. The village nestles amongst the high Alpine peaks of the Vanoise with the culminating peak, the Grande Casse (3855 m) close by. The village is at an altitude of 1400m.

Whilst there are a few ski lifts Pralognan keeps it’s village feel; village first and resort second. Pralognan is in a cul-de-sac with only one road in from the valley of the Tarentaise. To reach Pralognan you drive from Albertville up the Tarentaise valley to Moutiers. From here the road leads up via Bozel passing turns for the big, monster ski resorts of Meribel and Courchevel. Keep straight on and the road zig-zags up before you arrive at the village.

There’s a range of local services for the visitor, hotels, appartments and campsites. Higher up there are mountain refuges too with those in closer proximity accessible to most willing to make a short walk.

Walking & Climbing

Pralognan makes an ideal base to explore the Vanoise. The Tour des Glaciers de la Vanoise sets off from the village following the ancient Route du Sel to the Col de la Vanoise (2517 m) passing by the picture postcard Lac des Vaches. Two Grande Randonn?e (long distance walks) pass through, the GR5 on it’s way from Lake Geneva to the Mediterranean and the GR55.

Following the river Doron de Chaviere you can either walk, drive or take the ?navette? (free local bus) to the car park and end of the road at the hamlet of Prioux; only open in summer. Here you can also enjoy a meal or drink at one of the caf? / restaurants. To go further it’s on foot only and a short walk can take you to the refuge of the Roc de la Peche. For those going further you can continue to the alpine farm at Le Ritord and on to the Refuge Peclet-Polset.

Beyond the Refuge Peclet-Polset are the azure waters of the Lac Blanc nestling below the Col du Soufre and you can make out the edge of the Glacier de Gebroulaz. Another option is to head on to the Col de Chaviere (2796m) that is one of the highest cols on a Grand Randonnee.

The Col d’Aussois gives access to the Maurienne valley and a short detour to the Pointe de l’Observatoire gains the magical 3000m point. Further on along the ridge is the dramatic Point de l’Echelle.

Rock climbers can find short routes close to the centre of Pralognan but if you want long mountain routes you are spoilt for choice. Try the Aiguille de la Vanoise, the ?shark’s fin? of a mountain dominating the Lac des Vaches.

Via Ferrata

A short walk from the village centre is the Cascade de la Fraiche an impressive waterfall that thunders down between steep rocky walls. It’s the location for a great via ferrata that goes by the same name. The route starts on the left (looking up) and follows an edge that depending on the water level in the stream is sometimes bathed in a cooling spray from the waterfall! The most memorable part is crossing high above the waterfall on two steel wires to gain the other side. The route finishes up more steep rock before finishing amongst pine trees in the shade. A great couple of hours on a hot summer’s day! A good path leads back to the village.

Recommend Places

The Hotel Le Grand Bec *** at the entrance to the village is family owned and you can be assured of a warm welcome and excellent food. To relax there is an outdoor pool and inside another pool, sauna and jacuzzi.

Favourite Places ? Around Lac d’Annecy

The Lake Annecy area has to be one of my favourite places. Lac d’Annecy itself is the third largest lake in France with a surface area of 27.59 sq.km. and has very clean water.

Annecy Town

Annecy itself is a bustling town and the administrative capital of the department, Haute Savoie. It is 50km from Chambery and only 40km south of Geneva. Annecy is sometimes known as the ?Venice of the North?. The medieval part of Annecy that adjoins the lake is traversed by the river Thiou. The narrow old streets with ?hidden? passages is a labyrinth of shops, bars and restaurants.

Talloires is very pretty and if you want to spoil yourself a visit to Pere Bise’s Michelin starred restaurant right on the lake-side.

Geography

Over-looking Lac d’Annecy to the east is the edge of the Aravis mountain range. Along the eastern shores there are the mountains of Mont Veyrier, Les Dents de Lanfon and La Tournette (2351m) overlook the lake. The principal road on this side goes through Veyrier-du-Lac, Menthon-St-Bernard and Talloires.

The West side of Lac d’Annecy is bounded by the ?Parc naturel r?gional du Massif des Bauges?. The principal road along this side of the lake passes through Sevrier, St Jorioz and Duingt. At the end of the lake, known as the ?Bout du Lac? there’s a nature reserve with a very pretty, sign-posted, short walk.

The Bauges mountains, a limestone massif, is recognised as a GeoPark by UNESCO. The culminating point is Arcalod ( 2217m). Close to Annecy is the whale-back mountain of Le Semnoz, mainly tree covered, but the ridge is a great view point. In winter there are a couple of ski lifts and tracks for cross-country skiing. In summer herds of cows and goats roam amongst the alpine pastures.

Activities

Walking & Climbing

One of the most challenging walks close to the Lake is La Tournette ( 2351m). The starting point is usually accessed via the Col de la Forclaz and then by a rough track to a farm; the Chalet de l’Aulp. The farm also has a cafe and you can buy their cheeses too. From here a steep path sets off from here passing through an initial exposed traverse before reaching the Refuge de la Tournette. More easy scrambling and grassier slopes lead to the final section to the summit ?block? which is protected by chains and a short ladder takes you to the summit. A superb panorama awaits you.

There’s plenty of easier walking too. Short rambles to longer walks either in the Aravis or in the Bauges. You can find out more about my walks based around Lac d’Annecy and the Bauges on my website.

Swimming

If you enjoy swimming Lac d’Annecy is a wonderful spot. The water temperature can reach the low 20’s in summer. There are a number of ?beaches? where swimming is under the watchful eye of lifeguards within marked areas. You can of course swim elsewhere but at your own risk.

Cycling

On the west side of the lake the old railway line has been converted into a great cycle path that runs the full length of the lake. The cycle path is also shared by people on roller skates and even roller skis and the odd pedestrian too; so you need to be attentive. The east side of the lake is less easy for cyclists although there’s on-going works to increase the amount of cycle path. I tend to start on the East side from Doussard in the morning before the traffic increases. Near St Bernard it’s possible to take small backroads between the main road and the lake to avoid cycling with the traffic.

Paragliding

You are likely to see lots of paragliders flying here is the summer months as it’s one of the premier flying sites in France. If you would like to see what it is like you can take a flight with a professionally qualified instructor. There are many paragliding schools particularly near Echarvines above Talloires.

Golf

There are two golf courses in the area, one at Talloires and the other at Giez; on the way to Ugine.

Snowshoe Walking Weekend in the Beaufortain, Savoie

Arriving at Geneva airport on Friday in the spring sunshine I waited for my new group of clients for a snowshoe walking weekend in the Beaufortain.? The weather has been incredibly mild and sunny; more like May than mid-March!? However the snow is still more than sufficient for both snowshoeing and skiing.

The first day we drove about 10 minutes to park above the small hamlet of Boudin.? We soon put on the snowshoes before following the line of the summer route to the Col du Pre.? Here we caught our first views towards the Lac de Roselend and the mountains above the lake.

We headed upwards towards the Roche Parstire following the line of the ridge with the views increasing with each step.? Beautiful sunshine bathed the peaks with the odd cumulus cloud throwing some shadow to pick out the relief.? We found a great spot to enjoy our picnic lunch; in the sunshine with great views towards the Grand Mont but sheltered from the gentle northerley breeze.? Out with the Beaufort cheese, a couple of small bottles of wine and the other goodies.

After enjoying our lunch we gained a little more height before crossing over to the Lac de Roselend side of the now broader ridge.? The lake was almost completely frozen over.? We enjoyed descending in the deep snow towards the line of a summer track before contouring back around to the Col du Pre and the route down to Boudin.

Arriving back in Areches we enjoyed a welcome drink on the sunny terrace outside the hotel.

Today was a complete contrast!? The day started dry with good visibility but cloud was moving in fast as we headed up from near Haute Luce towards the Lac de la Girotte.? Arriving beyond the lake we were envelopped in thickening cloud and it required a little attention to find the descent.? The snow started for fall, gently at first but increasingly heavily as we descended through the woods.

By the time we reached the road the snow was coming down very steadily with large damp flakes.? A great day and a chance to see the mountains in a different guise.