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Guided walking – snowshoeing – via ferrata in the French Alps with Mark Tennent

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Guide

A Review of the Cicerone Guide “Via Ferratas of the French Alps – 66 Routes between Geneva and Briancon” by Richard Miller

Cicerone Guide Via Ferrata of the French Alps
Via Ferrata of the French Alps

A client showed me Richard Miller’s Cicerone guide book to via ferrata in the French Alps when he came on my Via Ferrata in the South of France trip.

As a professional climbing instructor in France I have specialised in guiding via ferrata in the French Alps for many years. Prior to this I worked as a Mountaineering Instructor in Glen Coe, Scotland. I also trained and assessed potential instructors.

So it was with some interest that I looked at the Cicerone guide book. Some of the advice at the start of the guide book gave me some concerns. In my time guiding via ferrata I come across dangerous practice on quite a regular basis.

Richard Miller whilst clearly enjoying via ferrata on a personal basis is perhaps not the best person to give advice on technique and equipment. His bio’ makes no mention of qualifications in the mountaineering field.

Grading system

Richard has decided to create his own grading systeme for the via ferrata in the guidebook. The guide covers just 66 routes and other routes that users of this guide may encounter will use the well-established system already in place. Why change a very well established system?

Yes, the system currently used in France is not perfect but then what grading system is? The current system of grading is described in my article, “How are via ferrata graded in France“.

For people using the guide all the information “on the ground” i.e. information panels will bear no resemblance to his system.

Equipment

Richard talks about the various items of equipment typically used on via ferrata. Some of the information is dubious.

Should people choose to buy equipment in France the language barrier may be an issue.

Remember: via ferrata are potentially dangerous, and therefore all equipment used should confirm to the relevant safety standards. Don’t buy off Ebay!

If any doubt what to get and how to use it, consult with the staff at a climbing shop!

Shops in the UK are not always staffed by experienced people; still less those with substantial via ferrata experience. Their advice may be suspect.

Sit harness or full-body

Full body harnesses are as rare as hen’s teeth except for ones produced for young children e.g. the Petzl Ouisti.

Any doubts engage a qualified mountain guide or climbing instructor – this is Richard’s best advice!

  • Petz Scorpio Via Ferrata Lanyard
    Petzl Scorpio via ferrata lanyard set

Via ferrata shock-absorbing lanyard

“Friction plates” these have been superseded by the “rip-out” style shock absorbing system. The French equipment manufacturer Petzl that specialises in mountaineering and industrial applications has NO friction plate systems in its product range.

If old “V” shape almost certainly very old and best not used.

Construct a via ferrata lanyard by yourself .. not recommended!

I would say that having seen “home-made” or improvised via ferrata lanyards that it is potentially lethal! Here’s a great example from YouTube!

Lethal!!!

Rest lanyard

There’s no need to use a screwgate karabiner as both lanyards should still be attached. When not in use and the screwgate is hanging down it will almost certainly screw itself up! So, when you come to use it, perhaps with arms tiring you are suddenly having to fiddle with the gate.

I use a screwgate krab attached to the pre-sewn loop above the shock absorber (not on all via ferrata lanyards) along with a quick draw and at the other end a plain, bent gate krab that is very easy to clip into rungs or the cable.

“never drop more than a few metres”

Richard Miller

This is misleading. Should you fall you are going to fall until the krabs on the lanyard reach the last anchor point. At this point depending on the force of the fall the lanyard will then rip (or slip if it’s a plate) and allow you to fall several metres further. Fall’s are to be avoided at all costs!

British man takes fall on La Roche ? l’Agathe at Thones in the French Alps

Pigs Tail ?pitons?

Richard Miller

These are not what mountaineers refer to as “pitons”. A piton is a metal rock anchor that is hammered into a crack in a rock face. The “Pigs Tails” (Queue de Cochon in French) are placed by drilling into the rock and then using a special resin to keep them in place.

  • A “Queue de Cochon”
  • Pitons or Pegs

Faster Party

When I notice a party catching up I advise saying you’ll let them through when you are in a good spot. By doing this the faster group knows that they are going to get by and you’ll feel much less stressed. Always stay clipped in! I gather my krabs together on the cable and flatten against the cliff to make it easy for them to clip past.

Tyrolean Traverses

Whilst in this guide the tyroleans are optional people should be aware that on some via ferrata these are not ?optional?! You will need the right equipment (sometimes available to rent) and know how to use it.

Tyroleans on via ferrata come in two forms.

The first has a double cable . Here put the pulley on to one (which one is typically indicated). Place a steel karabiner or maillon rapide on the second and clip one of your lanyards into the karabiner or maillon. An aluminium krab will have a groove worn in it if used directly on the cable.

Single cable tyroleans require a bit more thought and the right shape of karabiner. Place the pulley on the cable. Clip one of the karabiners (from one of the lanyards) over the cable and position it so it “sits” on top of the pulley. If positioned correctly it doesn’t touch the cable and yet should the attachment to the pulley fail for any reason this karabiner will leave you still attached to the cable.

In both cases you should only have a very short distance between your harness and the pulley. Normally it’s best to connect a large screwgate between the pulley and your belay loop on the harness. You need to be able to put both of your hands on the cable. This is both for potential braking but also should you not arrive by gravity at the far end you will need to turn around and pull yourself hand-over-hand along the cable.

Tyrolean Pulley types

Different tyroleans have been set up to be used with particular models of pulleys. The type of pulley required is indicated at the start of the via ferrata or mentioned in the guidebook.

  • Petzl Tandem Speed Pulley
    Petzl Tandem Speed Pulley
  • Petzl Jaune Tandem Pulley
    Petzl Jaune

Petzl currently produce two double pulleys. The Petzl Tandem Speed – a silver / grey colour and the Petzl XX. The second is only for use on ropes! You will probably still find that some via ferrata talk of the Petzl Jaune (yellow). This is no longer in production. The issue with using the Speed is that it has steel ball bearings and runs much faster than the Jaune. You will need to brake much more to avoid crashing into the end of the tyrolean. Use thick leather work gloves. In some cases you can hire a Jaune but for how much longer? The tyroleans will need to be re-adjusted by lowering the starting point or raising the arrival.

To slow down on a tyrolean place the flat of your hand (wearing thick leather gloves) on the cable behind the pulley. Never put your hand in front and avoid putting it on tope of the pulley.

Climbing with Children

Children should always be roped up in addition to the via ferrata lanyard. There are some via ferrata specifically designed for young children. These via ferrata are constructed with the rungs

Weather forecasts

A word of warning – English translations are frequently a summary of the French one and are sometimes poorly translated.

Further potentially misleading information is given about via ferrata during spring or early summer. Many via ferrata are officially closed by “Arrêté Municipale” (local bye-law) when snow is on the ground.

Testing Rock

“Give it a solid whack with your boot or fist!”

Richard Miller

In my years of rock climbing I would initially just giving it a tap with the heel of hand – a “hollow” sound indicates it’s not solid. Starting off by giving it a solid whack may dislodge it straight away potentially falling on you, a companion or others on the route.

Dogs

https://simplysavoie.com/articles/guard-dogs-in-the-french-mountains/

Accidents & Mountain Rescue

Richard is incorrect to say that you will need to pay for mountain rescue. Mountain rescue in France is *free! Medical cover is not and you should insure yourself for doctor’s or hospital bills.

*During the winter months within what is defined as the “Domaine skiable” rescue is paid for.

Why choose a locally based walking guide in the French Alps?

Why choosing a locally based walking guide in the French Alps is your best option.

Before you book your next guided walking holiday in the French Alps you may wish to consider the following questions.

Will your walking guide really have ?Local Knowledge??

Many walking holiday companies based outside France talk about the experience of their guides and talk of them as being ?local experts?. Really? The vast majority are certainly not ?local? and, arguably, far from ?experts?.

What is ?local knowledge?? a definition:

?Refers to facts and information acquired by a person which are relevant to a specific locale or have been elicited from a place-based context. It can also include specific skills or experiences made in a particular location.?

Can a walking guide who is ?parachuted in? for a few weeks have the same level of local knowledge as one who lives there all year? Simple logic would suggest, ?No?.

How well does your guide speak French?

Communication is key. When you get off the beaten track English isn’t always spoken or understood.

  • What happens if you have an accident or an emergency? Can your walking guide communicate clearly with the rescue services, a doctor, or at a hospital?
  • You may want help to understand a menu in a restaurant to guide you in your choice; especially important should you have a food allergy or special diet.
  • If you are staying in smaller hotels or mountain refuges can your guide act as your interpreter to make your stay an enjoyable one? Can they help you to break the language barrier between you and others?
  • Can they talk with other walkers on the trail and bring you into the conversation or exchanging information on conditions with other walking guides? This can be a major safety factor.

How choosing a local based walking guide contributes to ?Sustainable? Tourism

Sustainable tourism is a phrase that appears in most brochures or on websites. What does it mean in practice? It is about reducing the impact of tourism in a variety of ways:

  • Informing yourself of the culture, politics and the economy of the area that you will be staying in or walking through. What depth of knowledge does your walking guide have?
  • Anticipating and respecting the local culture and the expectations and assumptions that go with it. A locally based walking guide living, year-round in France can help you avoid making social faux pas, and enhance your experience.
  • Supporting the integrity of the local culture by [sic] choosing to support locally based walking guides or companies.

By choosing a French based and French speaking walking guide you truly contribute to the local economy.

What knowledge do they have of the wildlife and wild flowers?

Seeing wildlife and wild flowers is an important part of a walking or trekking holiday in the Alps. I can help you to spot ibex (bouquetin), chamois, bearded vultures not to mention the ubiquitous marmotte! Some are common and easy to spot, others can be more elusive. By knowing their favourite hang outs I can increase your chance of seeing them. Let me guide you in discovering the kaleidoscope of wild alpine flowers that never fails to inspire me; especially genepy!

Can they help you discover French food, wine and other local produce?

France is world renowned for its gastronomy, great wine and fresh, local produce. It forms an essential part of any walking or trekking holiday in the Alps. A locally based walking guide can help you fully discover local specialities and not just the run-of-the-mill items on every menu.

I can take you to alpine farms where cheese making still happens ?sur place? (on site). Here you can watch this timeless tradition taking place. Huge copper cauldrons brimming with milk direct from the cows, their bells tinkling in the alpine pastures. You can taste the cheeses maturing in the farms cellar and may be buy some to take home with you.

You may know your French wines, Bordeaux, Cote de Rhones, Chablis, etc. However let me introduce you to the local Savoie wines. Savoie wines are comparatively little known due to the very small quantities produced and sometimes they are produce from grape varieties rarely grown elsewhere in France.

Is the walking guide legally allowed to work in France?

Is your potential walking guide legal to work in France? Does your guided walking holiday company only employ walking or hiking guides legally able to work in France? If not you run the risk that your guide is arrested and your holiday ruined. Find out more.

Well, why choose me, Mark …

I’ve lived near Albertville, Savoie, in the French Alps since 2005. My home is in a small rural hamlet on the mountainside that forms part of the Chaine de la Lauziere between Albertville and the Col de la Madeleine.

I speak fluent French, albeit with a British accent, except when I’m working I rarely speak English. I’m currently applying for French citizenship.

All my neighbours are French. As I said to them, ?I didn’t move here to be part of an English speaking ?ghetto? like Chamonix or Meribel?. I now feel ?I belong? and several years ago I was touched by being introduced by my closest neighbour, a retired farmer, a Savoyard ?de souche? (born and bred) as a Villaret (someone from Le Villard). It was a milestone in being accepted into a tightly knit community where the local patois is still spoken.

Let me share my local knowledge with you. It’s an accumulation of my day-to-day life experience in France. So please allow me to bring your holiday ?alive?!

Unqualified walking guide in France – the risks

The immediate risk is that your unqualified walking guide or hiking leader could be arrested at any time leaving your holiday ruined. You may then find yourself required to give a statement to the police as part of their investigation. Clearly not how you wish to spend your holiday.

An unqualified walking guide – your safety at risk

Most importantly your safety and well-being could be at serious risk. What if the weather suddenly changes? Can your leader navigate in difficult conditions? If your route crosses steep, rocky terrain or even makes use of steep ladders and wire protected passages does your leader have the skills and experience to keep you safe? Early summer in the Alps large areas of old snow can make normally easy routes very serious with a trip or a slip potentially having serious or fatal consequences. Can your leader protect your safety?

The benefits of using a qualified walking or trekking guide

No. 1 ? Your safety & well-being.

  • Your leader will have been assessed on their navigation and map reading skills. In good weather finding the right route may be easy but even in summer in the Alps snow can rapidly cover footpaths and way marks. Low cloud may suddenly make route finding more challenging.
  • Your leader will have been trained and assessed in the use of the rope to protect you on steep ladders, wire protected sections of the route or even large areas of snow lingering from the winter. These can look innocuous but a slip and an uncontrolled slide may have very serious consequences.
  • Your leader has to undergo regular refresher training or ?Continued Professional Development? to ensure their skills are up-to-date.
  • Your leader is required to have a good knowledge of the flora and fauna helping you to get the most from your holiday.
  • Your leader will have been trained in First Aid, usually a course specifically for remote environments in the mountains.
  • Your leader is required to hold Professional Indemnity Insurance.

By insisting on only using a qualified Accompagnateur en Montagne (AeM) or International Mountain Leader (IML) you are assured of a leader who has gone through a thorough training and assessment programme.

It is also worth checking how your holiday insurance may be affected. In some cases your insurance may be invalid if you are injured when in the company of an unqualfied leader potentially leaving you with a large bill.

The Legal Situation in France

France has strict laws (references below) on who can lead walking, hiking and trekking tours. Indeed this applies to other outdoor sport professionals such as mountain guides (guide de haute montagne), rock climbing and ski instructors. There’s no requirement for leading genuine friends or family. The purpose of the laws is protect the public.

Consequences for an unqualified walking guide or mountain leaders

Regular checks (or contr?les) are carried out by inspectors from the DDCS or the Peleton Gendarmerie de Haute Montagne (PGHM) who also carry out mountain rescues. If they suspect someone is leading a group they will ask for proof of the leaders qualifications and to see if they have registered to work in France. Should they discover that a person is not qualified they may arrest them on the spot. These unqualified leaders face up to 1 years imprisonment and / or up to a Euro 15,000 fine.

A person who is remunerated for leading walks or hikes for (which includes payment in kind) is required to hold the relevant qualification or its recognised equivalent. They are also required to register with the French Sports Ministry. Those who work on a regular basis or are resident in France will also be issued with a ?Carte Professionnelle? with their photograph and a link to the qualifications they hold.

Protectionism?

It’s often decried as France being protectionist. Not true. Any person who holds the recognised qualification or equivalent may work in France regardless of nationality. As a UK national it was a straightforward administrative matter to have my International Mountain Leader qualification recognised. The same is true for IFMGA Mountain Guides and ski instructors. There are at least 350 British ski instructors working perfectly legally in France with no hindrance.

References

Code du sport – Article L212-1 (in French)

Code du sport – Article L212-2

French Regulations for Leading Groups in the Mountains – Code de Sport

Code du sport
  • Partie l?gislative
    • LIVRE II : ACTEURS DU SPORT
      • TITRE Ier : FORMATION ET ENSEIGNEMENT
        • Chapitre II : Enseignement du sport contre r?mun?ration
          • Section 1 : Obligation de qualification

Article L212-1

I.-Seuls peuvent, contre r?mun?ration, enseigner, animer ou encadrer une activit? physique ou sportive ou entra?ner ses pratiquants, ? titre d’occupation principale ou secondaire, de fa?on habituelle, saisonni?re ou occasionnelle, sous r?serve des dispositions du quatri?me alin?a du pr?sent article et de l’article L. 212-2 du pr?sent code, les titulaires d’un dipl?me, titre ? finalit? professionnelle ou certificat de qualification :

1? Garantissant la comp?tence de son titulaire en mati?re de s?curit? des pratiquants et des tiers dans l’activit? consid?r?e ;

2? Et enregistr? au r?pertoire national des certifications professionnelles dans les conditions pr?vues au II de l’article L. 335-6 du code de l’?ducation.

Peuvent ?galement exercer contre r?mun?ration les fonctions mentionn?es au premier alin?a ci-dessus les personnes en cours de formation pour la pr?paration ? un dipl?me, titre ? finalit? professionnelle ou certificat de qualification conforme aux prescriptions des 1? et 2? ci-dessus, dans les conditions pr?vues par le r?glement de ce dipl?me, titre ou certificat.

II.-Le dipl?me mentionn? au I peut ?tre un dipl?me ?tranger admis en ?quivalence.

III.-Les dispositions du I s’appliquent ? compter de l’inscription des dipl?mes, titres ? finalit? professionnelle ou certificats de qualification sur la liste des dipl?mes, titres ? finalit? professionnelle ou certificats de qualification r?pondant aux conditions pr?vues aux paragraphes I et II, au fur et ? mesure de cette inscription.

IV.-Les personnes qui auront acquis, dans la p?riode pr?c?dant l’inscription mentionn?e au III et conform?ment aux dispositions l?gislatives en vigueur, le droit d’exercer contre r?mun?ration une des fonctions mentionn?es au I conservent ce droit.

V.-Un d?cret en Conseil d’Etat d?termine les conditions d’application du pr?sent article. Il fixe notamment les modalit?s selon lesquelles est ?tablie la liste mentionn?e au III.

British Ski Instructors not welcome in the French Alps? Not True!

The British press including the Daily Telegraph and the Daily Mail have carried articles on the arrest of a British ski instructor, Simon Butler, at the resort of Megeve, Haute Savoie. He will appear in court on the 7th April. The articles have been verging on the xenophobic and are quite misleading.

To debunk the myth that British ski instructors are not welcome in the [French] Alps you should note there are currently a large number of British instructors operating entirely legally in France with absolutely no issues with the French authorities or indeed their French colleagues. These instructors hold BASIs highest qualification ?Level 4 ? International Ski Teacher Diploma (ISTD)? This gives mutual recognition in various alpine nations including France.

Simon Butler is apparently no stranger to the French courts. He has already been convicted by the court in Bonneville, Haute-Savoie in 2004 and fined 10,000 Euro. In 2013 he was convicted again. This time he was found guilty and give a 6 month prison sentence and a 10,000 Euro fine which he appealed and has not yet been heard on appeal.

The French system for sports professionals

To help to understand his arrest it is helpful to understand the cultural and legal framework in France. In France the profession of ski instructor (and other sports professionals including mountain guides, mountain walking leaders, rock climbing instructors, kayak instructors, etc, are ?regulated? professions. As such you are required to hold the relevant French qualification or it’s recognised equivalent.

Sports professionals (i.e. working for payment, whether in cash or kind) are further required to declare themselves to the French sports ministry. This is the same irrespective of nationality. The ministry officials will examine the declaration and assuming all is in order issue a ?Carte Professionnelle?. This professional licence gives details of the qualifications you hold and is requested when checks are carried out by ministry officials, supported by the gendarmerie, or following an accident. The penalties for not doing so are quite dissuasive; one years imprisonment or up to a 15000 Euro fine or both.

The European context and France

One of the principles of the European Union is ?freedom of movement?. The main EU Directive that enshrines this is EU-2005/36/EU. This however is not a ?carte blanche? to simply go and start working within another EU state without complying with relevant administrative procedures. As an EU national one applies either for ?Freedom of Establishment? where one wants to establish a permanent presence on French territory or ?Freedom to Provide Services? where the activity on French territory is of a temporary, or occasional, nature.

In respect of sports professionals the local sports ministry officials will then (providing the qualifications and professional experience is deemed sufficient) issue the appropriate authorisation ? a ?carte professionnelle?.

References and Definitions

What is a regulated profession?

A profession is said to be regulated when access and exercise is subject to the possession of a specific professional qualification. (In the UK the ?profession? of ski instructor is not a regulated profession).

?Significant differences?

If the authorities of the host country find significant differences between the training acquired in your country of origin (including your professional experience) and that required for the same work in the host country, they may ask you to complete a traineeship or aptitude test. In the case in question the agreed test is the ?Eurotest?. The Eurotest is a timed GS Slalom.

British Association of Snowsport Instructors

www.basi.org.uk

Relevant European Union Legislation and Guidance

Recognition of Professional Qualifications

http://ec.europa.eu/internal_market/qualifications/index_en.htm

Directive 2005/36/EC

http://ec.europa.eu/internal_market/qualifications/policy_developments/legislation/index_en.htm

French Derogation regarding ski instructor qualifications

http://ec.europa.eu/internal_market/qualifications/docs/ski/com-2000-2262/com-2000-2262_en.pdf

Relevant French Legislation

Code de Sport

http://www.legifrance.gouv.fr/affichCode.do?cidTexte=LEGITEXT000006071318

LIVRE II : ACTEURS DU SPORT

  • TITRE Ier : FORMATION ET ENSEIGNEMENT
    • Chapitre Ier : Formation aux professions du sport (Articles L211-1 ? L211-7)
    • Chapitre II : Enseignement du sport contre r?mun?ration
      • Section 1 : Obligation de qualification (Articles L212-1 ? L212-8)
      • Section 2 : Obligation d’honorabilit? (Articles L212-9 ? L212-10)
      • Section 3 : Obligation de d?claration d’activit? (Articles L212-11 ? L212-12)
      • Section 4 : Police des activit?s d’enseignement (Articles L212-13 ? L212-14)

?Environnement Specifique?

The Code de Sport defines certain situations to be an ?environnement specifique?. In these cases it is deemed that particular safety measures are needed. However it doesn’t go on to define this term. There are several sports / activities that are classed as being in such an environnement including skiing. The Sports ministry has clarified this as being where there is the real possibility of a serious accident (taking into account accident statistics) and how easy or otherwise, it is to evacuate an injured person.

Why take a guide?

… rather than doing it on your own?

Yes, you could ?do it on your own? however here are some reasons why choosing to walk with me may give you an even better holiday.

Local knowledge ? I live in France, and in particular, in Savoie all year round. I also happen to speak fluent French. Over the years I have gained many insights into the area that can give you a far more interesting and enjoyable experience.

The language – If you don’t speak French it’s very difficult or impossible to interact with the local people, be it shepherd’s or other walkers. This interaction enriches your experience. I frequently find myself acting as an interpreter in refuges allowing you to join in conversations with French walkers in refuges or out on the trails.

Route finding – No stress! No need to worry about finding your way. You can relax and let me take care of the route finding allowing you to enjoy your time in the Alps to the maximum.

Choosing the best walks ? whilst you may read about walks in guidebooks or see signs out on the trail they may not be the most suitable for you or the conditions. I can show you places that are not mentioned in guidebooks; especially English language guidebooks.

Culture – avoid committing cultural ?faux pas? from simply not being attuned to local customs and etiquette.

Get off the beaten track – living locally I can help you discover places that you would almost not find out about on your own. Where and when are you most likely to see: ibex, chamois or other wild animals and birds. Where to find alpine flowers and plants like genepy or edelweiss.

Local specialities and produce ? I can introduce you to some of the best local produce and the local markets not the one’s set up to ?trap? the tourists.

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