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Guided walking – snowshoeing – via ferrata in the French Alps with Mark Tennent

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Alps

A Review of the Cicerone Guide “Via Ferratas of the French Alps – 66 Routes between Geneva and Briancon” by Richard Miller

Cicerone Guide Via Ferrata of the French Alps
Via Ferrata of the French Alps

A client showed me Richard Miller’s Cicerone guide book to via ferrata in the French Alps when he came on my Via Ferrata in the South of France trip.

As a professional climbing instructor in France I have specialised in guiding via ferrata in the French Alps for many years. Prior to this I worked as a Mountaineering Instructor in Glen Coe, Scotland. I also trained and assessed potential instructors.

So it was with some interest that I looked at the Cicerone guide book. Some of the advice at the start of the guide book gave me some concerns. In my time guiding via ferrata I come across dangerous practice on quite a regular basis.

Richard Miller whilst clearly enjoying via ferrata on a personal basis is perhaps not the best person to give advice on technique and equipment. His bio’ makes no mention of qualifications in the mountaineering field.

Grading system

Richard has decided to create his own grading systeme for the via ferrata in the guidebook. The guide covers just 66 routes and other routes that users of this guide may encounter will use the well-established system already in place. Why change a very well established system?

Yes, the system currently used in France is not perfect but then what grading system is? The current system of grading is described in my article, “How are via ferrata graded in France“.

For people using the guide all the information “on the ground” i.e. information panels will bear no resemblance to his system.

Equipment

Richard talks about the various items of equipment typically used on via ferrata. Some of the information is dubious.

Should people choose to buy equipment in France the language barrier may be an issue.

Remember: via ferrata are potentially dangerous, and therefore all equipment used should confirm to the relevant safety standards. Don’t buy off Ebay!

If any doubt what to get and how to use it, consult with the staff at a climbing shop!

Shops in the UK are not always staffed by experienced people; still less those with substantial via ferrata experience. Their advice may be suspect.

Sit harness or full-body

Full body harnesses are as rare as hen’s teeth except for ones produced for young children e.g. the Petzl Ouisti.

Any doubts engage a qualified mountain guide or climbing instructor – this is Richard’s best advice!

  • Petz Scorpio Via Ferrata Lanyard
    Petzl Scorpio via ferrata lanyard set

Via ferrata shock-absorbing lanyard

“Friction plates” these have been superseded by the “rip-out” style shock absorbing system. The French equipment manufacturer Petzl that specialises in mountaineering and industrial applications has NO friction plate systems in its product range.

If old “V” shape almost certainly very old and best not used.

Construct a via ferrata lanyard by yourself .. not recommended!

I would say that having seen “home-made” or improvised via ferrata lanyards that it is potentially lethal! Here’s a great example from YouTube!

Lethal!!!

Rest lanyard

There’s no need to use a screwgate karabiner as both lanyards should still be attached. When not in use and the screwgate is hanging down it will almost certainly screw itself up! So, when you come to use it, perhaps with arms tiring you are suddenly having to fiddle with the gate.

I use a screwgate krab attached to the pre-sewn loop above the shock absorber (not on all via ferrata lanyards) along with a quick draw and at the other end a plain, bent gate krab that is very easy to clip into rungs or the cable.

“never drop more than a few metres”

Richard Miller

This is misleading. Should you fall you are going to fall until the krabs on the lanyard reach the last anchor point. At this point depending on the force of the fall the lanyard will then rip (or slip if it’s a plate) and allow you to fall several metres further. Fall’s are to be avoided at all costs!

British man takes fall on La Roche ? l’Agathe at Thones in the French Alps

Pigs Tail ?pitons?

Richard Miller

These are not what mountaineers refer to as “pitons”. A piton is a metal rock anchor that is hammered into a crack in a rock face. The “Pigs Tails” (Queue de Cochon in French) are placed by drilling into the rock and then using a special resin to keep them in place.

  • A “Queue de Cochon”
  • Pitons or Pegs

Faster Party

When I notice a party catching up I advise saying you’ll let them through when you are in a good spot. By doing this the faster group knows that they are going to get by and you’ll feel much less stressed. Always stay clipped in! I gather my krabs together on the cable and flatten against the cliff to make it easy for them to clip past.

Tyrolean Traverses

Whilst in this guide the tyroleans are optional people should be aware that on some via ferrata these are not ?optional?! You will need the right equipment (sometimes available to rent) and know how to use it.

Tyroleans on via ferrata come in two forms.

The first has a double cable . Here put the pulley on to one (which one is typically indicated). Place a steel karabiner or maillon rapide on the second and clip one of your lanyards into the karabiner or maillon. An aluminium krab will have a groove worn in it if used directly on the cable.

Single cable tyroleans require a bit more thought and the right shape of karabiner. Place the pulley on the cable. Clip one of the karabiners (from one of the lanyards) over the cable and position it so it “sits” on top of the pulley. If positioned correctly it doesn’t touch the cable and yet should the attachment to the pulley fail for any reason this karabiner will leave you still attached to the cable.

In both cases you should only have a very short distance between your harness and the pulley. Normally it’s best to connect a large screwgate between the pulley and your belay loop on the harness. You need to be able to put both of your hands on the cable. This is both for potential braking but also should you not arrive by gravity at the far end you will need to turn around and pull yourself hand-over-hand along the cable.

Tyrolean Pulley types

Different tyroleans have been set up to be used with particular models of pulleys. The type of pulley required is indicated at the start of the via ferrata or mentioned in the guidebook.

  • Petzl Tandem Speed Pulley
    Petzl Tandem Speed Pulley
  • Petzl Jaune Tandem Pulley
    Petzl Jaune

Petzl currently produce two double pulleys. The Petzl Tandem Speed – a silver / grey colour and the Petzl XX. The second is only for use on ropes! You will probably still find that some via ferrata talk of the Petzl Jaune (yellow). This is no longer in production. The issue with using the Speed is that it has steel ball bearings and runs much faster than the Jaune. You will need to brake much more to avoid crashing into the end of the tyrolean. Use thick leather work gloves. In some cases you can hire a Jaune but for how much longer? The tyroleans will need to be re-adjusted by lowering the starting point or raising the arrival.

To slow down on a tyrolean place the flat of your hand (wearing thick leather gloves) on the cable behind the pulley. Never put your hand in front and avoid putting it on tope of the pulley.

Climbing with Children

Children should always be roped up in addition to the via ferrata lanyard. There are some via ferrata specifically designed for young children. These via ferrata are constructed with the rungs

Weather forecasts

A word of warning – English translations are frequently a summary of the French one and are sometimes poorly translated.

Further potentially misleading information is given about via ferrata during spring or early summer. Many via ferrata are officially closed by “Arrêté Municipale” (local bye-law) when snow is on the ground.

Testing Rock

“Give it a solid whack with your boot or fist!”

Richard Miller

In my years of rock climbing I would initially just giving it a tap with the heel of hand – a “hollow” sound indicates it’s not solid. Starting off by giving it a solid whack may dislodge it straight away potentially falling on you, a companion or others on the route.

Dogs

https://simplysavoie.com/articles/guard-dogs-in-the-french-mountains/

Accidents & Mountain Rescue

Richard is incorrect to say that you will need to pay for mountain rescue. Mountain rescue in France is *free! Medical cover is not and you should insure yourself for doctor’s or hospital bills.

*During the winter months within what is defined as the “Domaine skiable” rescue is paid for.

John M. – Via Ferrata

Having done and gotten a taste for Via Feratta at Honister in the Lake District I looked long and hard at the internet for a convenient Via Ferrata experience.?

Having looked at the home of the VF, Italy, I extended my search to Austria, Switzerland, Spain and France.?

Am I glad I found Simply Savoie.? I chose the 3 day experience.? Absolutely no hassle, picked up by Mark from Geneva Airport and dropped off at the Hotel in Albertville, France.? Having never been in this area of France before and having no language skills it was very pleasant to hear about the areas we drove through and the local knowledge and scenery Mark described was, probably, priceless.?

Des Betti?res Via Ferrata Peisey-Nancroix - Alps - France
On the first section of the via ferrata Des Betti?res near Peisey-Nancroix.

Day 1 and Mark seemed to have assessed my ability and I was introduced to the 1st day in Peisey-Nancroix on the Les Bettieres Via Ferratta.? Mark ensured I was confident with the essential safety exuipment, tips on progressing in a straightforward manner were only adding to my confidence.? I also feel that Mark has to feel confident in the customer?s ability as well and this also came across in an understated way.?

Via Ferrata Mont?e au Ciel - Pont du Diable - Maurienne
Climbing the via ferrata the Montee au Ciel above the River Arc.

The exhilaration of that 1st day was only bettered on the 2nd Day at Aussois were we did 3 VF?s in the beautiful gorge of the river Arc with imposing Napoleonic Forts on either side of a very steep and narrow gorge.? The 2nd VF Les Rois Mages of that day was one which Mark had not actually completed before and again, he ensured that I felt confident in tackling the most difficult section and more importantly for me was that he felt confident that i was able to complete this part.? It was truly exposed, adrenalin pumping and exhilarating.? This was followed by another fantastic VF La Montee au Purgatoire which ascended up a spectacular waterfall.? Truly the descent in the Devil?s lair followed by the ascendency to Purgatory…………..(have I got that right?).?

La Roche ? Agathe Thones Via Ferrata
Steep climbing on the via ferrata de la Roche ? Agathe above Thones in the Aravis

My 3rd and final day was in Thones on the VF Roc Agathe overlooking the town, this was another fantastic challenge before being taken back to Geneva airport for my flight home.?

Highly recommended as I felt that having done 5 VF?s in 3 days, with Mark providing a packed lunch each day, organising the accommodation in a setting which gave access to the sometimes distant VF?s.? The fact that Mark provided the transport meant you could enjoy the fantastic scenery added to his knowledge of the areas visited.?

The other big plus is that Mark is also a good photographer and I look forward to getting some extremely scary looking photos that he took along with video clips across gaping chasms.?

With VF?s to suit all abilities with a knowledgeable, experienced instructor, I felt safe and secure throughout, VF is not be taken lightly and can be strenuous but this has been the best holiday/short break I have ever done anywhere.

Snowshoe Walking at Champagny-le-Haut

We had a lovely day of snow shoe walking with Mark in the Champagny le Haut valley. Mark was full of local flora and fauna knowledge keeping the girls, aged fourteen and twelve interested.
Thank you.

Patrick W.

Thank you for the feedback Patrick. It was a pleasure meeting you and your family. Mark

Is the Tour du Mont Blanc Sustainable?

The Sustainability of the Tour du Mont Blanc in Question

I guided several American groups hiking the Tour du Mont Blanc during the summer. The amount of people on this classic trekking route is amazing. It is clearly a great success however is the Tour du Mont Blanc sustainable?

Key Issues

Toilets

Look behind any large rock or amongst the trees close to the path and you will come across human waste and toilet paper. It’s hideous.

Erosion

The path is severely eroded. Given the many years that the Tour du Mont Blanc has existed you can expect erosion however walkers need to be educated.

Hikers on the Tour du Mont Blanc need to be educated to avoid taking short-cuts especially where paths zig-zag. These short-cuts create more channels for surface run-off that is quickly eroded after heavy rain. The fragile soil and plant life are unlikely to ever recover.

Walkers also need to learn to avoid walking immediately to the edge of the existing path. Walking immediately parallel to the path simply spreads the erosion in a ?ribbon? effect.

Mountain bikes, or as they are known in France VTT (Velo Tout Terrain) exacerbate and accelerate the rate of erosion. My observations show that they frequently avoid the drainage channels and rocks designed to take water off the path. By doing so they create a new channel for the water that simply by-passes the channel making it redundant; unable to do its job.

Watching a group descend from the Col du Grand Ferret they clearly had no regard for the erosion they were causing and spreading it across the mountain. I feed that mountain bikers are similar to downhill skiers; not real mountain lovers but those in search of an adrenaline buzz in a man-made environment.

Etiquette in the Mountains

In the mountains the etiquette has always been that those going up have priority over those going down. It’s common sense and courtesy really as it’s harder work going up hill. Whilst guiding an American lady this summer finding it hard going I was setting a slow pace for her. An American coming down the path indicated that I should move out of his way. I just stood there and politely reminded him of this mountain etiquette to which he said I was the first a***hole he’d met on the Tour. Charming.

Drones on the Tour du Mont Blanc

I can see the attraction of a drone and the amazing footage that one can obtain. However for those in the vicinity the buzzing like a demented bee is very intrusive. During a Tour du Mont Blanc this summer I was sitting with the group at the Col du Grand Ferret when a group of mountain bikers arrived. One of their number then got out a drone and launched it.

Potential Ideas for Improvement

Dry toilets

Putting in place dry toilets in locations where, currently, there are no toilets could help. There needs to be a move to construct bio matter type toilets in places where people tend to congregate e.g. the Col du Bonhomme (where there’s already a wooden shelter); Col de la Seigne or just below adjacent to the Casmatte; Col du Grand Ferret; Col du Tricot.

Leave No Trace

The use of zip-lock bags for toilet paper and / or human waste should be encouraged.

?Tourist Tax?

A levy for companies with groups on the TMB could be used for putting money back in to provide additional facilities and provide money to pay for ?wardens?.

Create the ?Mont Blanc National Park?

Despite its world renown the Mont Blanc massif has no special protection. National Park status would bring with it a level of regulation backed up by national park wardens. Yes, the TMB passes through Italy and Switzerland as well however even if the other countries did not agree, it would create an upwards pressure.

Via Ferrata Yves Pollet-Villard

Via Ferrata Yves Pollet-Villard

The via ferrata Yves Pollet-Villard is in a great position close to the Col des Aravis and near the village of La Clusaz in Haute Savoie.? It is a beautifully situated above the alpine pastures and as you approach the route you may hear the sound of cow bells.? You may even want to visit one of the nearby farms selling Reblochon (the local cheese).

Leaving the car park the path leads you up through pine woods before you emerge at the base of the cliff.? There’s rock climbing routes to your left.? The via ferrata starts on steep limestone and overall takes a rising traverse up the cliff.? A short steep section close to the start gives you an idea of the difficulty that you may encounter.? Easier ground leads to a steep section, “le donjon des Deux Niches” (the dungeon of the two nests literally translated).? As you progress the route unfolds.

One of the classic views of the via ferrata Yves Pollet-Villard is a “Nepal Bridge” of about 20m, in an airy position.? This takes you on to another steep wall.? The route continues until, close to the end, two choices present themselves.? Either get ready for a short but sharp section with an overhang to test your arms and motivation or continue traversing before arriving at the end of the route.

The descent is straightforward across some inclined slabs before reaching wooded terrain, and a footpath leading down to the car park.

Mark’s Opinion

A superb via ferrata to be savoured!

Via Ferrata Rocher de Cornillon – Savoie

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